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北京-甘南自駕游 行程8 蘭州-陜西延安壺口瀑布-山西呂梁磧口古鎮(zhèn)-北京,車程1900多公里

聞雞起舞Huang

<p class="ql-block">蘭州-延安黃河壺口瀑布景區(qū),車程820km,一路上淅淅瀝瀝下著雨。</p><p class="ql-block">Enjoyable journey&nbsp;&nbsp;from Beijing to Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Gansu Province with my wife by driving ourselves in the summer.</p><p class="ql-block">Section 8: Traveling from Lanzhou to <span style="font-size: 18px;">Hukou waterfall of Yellow River in Yan 'an, Shaanxi Province, and </span>Qikou, an ancient town on the riverside of <span style="font-size: 18px;">the Yellow River </span>in Lvliang of Shanxi Province and then back to Beijing, 1900km drive. </p><p class="ql-block">We checked out the hotel in Lanzhou in the morning 8:50, and drove to next stop Hukou waterfall of <span style="font-size: 18px;">Yellow River in Yan 'an, Shaanxi Province, 820km drive.</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">It was raining in the morning and cool down a lot.&nbsp;</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">到了延安</span>吳起北服務(wù)區(qū),雨停了。早上從蘭州出發(fā)到這里,走了540km,一直下著雨,這雨下的范圍可真夠大的。</p><p class="ql-block">The rain stopped when we got at Wuqi of Yan’an, Shaanxi Province.</p> <p class="ql-block">自駕數(shù)千里,重走長(zhǎng)征路。</p><p class="ql-block">吳起鎮(zhèn),位于延安西北部,歷史上一直是軍事重鎮(zhèn)。傳說(shuō)戰(zhàn)國(guó)時(shí)期(約前400年),魏國(guó)著名軍事家吳起在此屯兵戍邊23年,故名。清代在此設(shè)立吳起鎮(zhèn)。</p><p class="ql-block">1935年10月19日,中央紅軍陜甘支隊(duì)到達(dá)陜甘革命根據(jù)地延安吳起鎮(zhèn),至此,紅軍主力歷時(shí)一年的長(zhǎng)征勝利結(jié)束。</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">We stopped over at Wuqi Town. </span></p><p class="ql-block">Wuqi, an ancient town dated back to 5th century. </p><p class="ql-block">We followed the footprints&nbsp;of the soldiers of the Red Army who <span style="font-size: 18px;">arrived on October 19, 1935 in the town </span>of Yan’an, Shaanxi Province <span style="font-size: 18px;">after their one-year </span> <span style="font-size: 18px;">Long March started in Jinggangshan mountains of Jiangxi Province in October, 1934 in order to survive from the fightings by </span>Chiang Kai-shek’s troops<span style="font-size: 18px;">. </span>The statue presented<span style="font-size: 18px;"> Mao Zedong, leader of the Red Army celebrated</span> <span style="font-size: 18px;">the victory of the Long March with soldiers </span>when they arrived at the town. </p> <p class="ql-block">晚上到達(dá)延安宜川縣壺口瀑布景區(qū)酒店,天又下起了大雨,于是在酒店餐廳用晚餐,點(diǎn)了一個(gè)干燒黃河大鯉魚(yú),味道真的好極了,屬于“好吃不貴”的那種??</p><p class="ql-block">We arrived at the hotel near Hukou Waterfall of the Yellow River in Yan’an of Shaanxi Province in the evening. It was raining again, so we had dinner at the hotel restaurant. I ordered the famous dish: Pan-fried and braised<span style="font-size: 18px;"> carp out of the Yellow River, </span>very delicious and cheap.</p> <p class="ql-block">晚餐后,雨停了,走到酒店旁邊的壺口瀑布景區(qū),外面空無(wú)一人,瀑布水量很大,夜幕中聽(tīng)這瀑布的轟鳴聲猶如交響樂(lè)般的,真讓人心潮澎湃。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">清早起來(lái),走到露臺(tái)上,看下面壺口瀑布<span style="font-size: 18px;">飛瀉直下,</span>洶涌澎湃,浪花飛濺,不禁唱起了這首歌《保衛(wèi)黃河》:</p><p class="ql-block">風(fēng)在吼 馬在叫</p><p class="ql-block">黃河在咆哮</p><p class="ql-block">黃河在咆哮</p><p class="ql-block">河西山岡萬(wàn)丈高</p><p class="ql-block">河?xùn)|河北高梁熟了</p><p class="ql-block">萬(wàn)山叢中</p><p class="ql-block">抗日英雄真不少……</p><p class="ql-block">保衛(wèi)家鄉(xiāng) 保衛(wèi)黃河</p><p class="ql-block">保衛(wèi)華北 保衛(wèi)全中國(guó)。</p><p class="ql-block">Hukou Waterfall of the Yellow River in Yan’an of Shaanxi Province.</p><p class="ql-block">My wife and I got up early in the morning, then walked out to the balcony and looked at the waterfall in the front of us. I made a short video accompanied with the song Defend the Yellow River, which was written and composed by Kuang Weiran and Xian Xinghai in 1939 during the Chinese War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression.&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">北京-甘南自駕游,從四川<span style="font-size: 18px;">阿壩蓮寶葉則“蜀山之源 昆侖天梯”(海拔5141m)、</span>黃河上游甘南瑪曲黃河第一灣/阿萬(wàn)倉(cāng)濕地草原(海拔3500m),來(lái)到了黃河中游延安宜川縣壺口瀑布(海拔960m),一路探尋黃河流域壯美的自然景觀、豐富的民族歷史文化和<span style="font-size: 18px;">地方</span>美食。</p><p class="ql-block">With the journey from Beijing to Gannan of Gansu Province, my wife and I explored beautiful natural landscapes, histories and cultures <span style="font-size: 18px;">of the multiple nationalities </span>and <span style="font-size: 18px;">local </span>cuisines all the way by driving ourselves from Lianbao Ye Ze with peak altitude of 5141m so- called " the Ladder to <span style="font-size: 18px;">Kunlun Mountains/t</span>he source of Sichuan mountains "of Aba (Ngawa) Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan Province and then <span style="font-size: 18px;">Awangcang Wetland/Prairies with altitude of 3500m at </span>the upper reaches of the Yellow River in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous <span style="font-size: 18px;">Prefecture</span> of Gansu Province to <span style="font-size: 18px;">Hukou Waterfall with altitude of 960 m in Yichuan County of Shaanxi Province at </span>the middle reaches of the Yellow River.</p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">瞧這壺口瀑布,真壯觀。對(duì)岸是山西吉縣,那邊景區(qū)條件似乎陜西宜川這邊的好。</span></p><p class="ql-block">黃河奔流至此,兩岸石壁峭立,上游黃河水面寬400米,在不到500米長(zhǎng)距離內(nèi),收縮到寬30—50米的<span style="font-size: 18px;">小河槽,形如壺口,故名壺口瀑布</span>。瀑布落差達(dá)30-45米,以每秒1000—3000立方米<span style="font-size: 18px;">流量</span>傾注而瀉,激流澎湃,濁浪滔天,聲震數(shù)里,形成“千里黃河一壺收”之壯美景觀。</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">《壺口詠》</span>明朝 惠世楊&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">源出昆侖衍大流,&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">玉關(guān)九轉(zhuǎn)一壺收。&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">雙騰虬淺直沖斗,&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">三鼓鯨鱗敢負(fù)舟。&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">桃浪雨飛翻海市,&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">松崖雷餐倒蜃樓。&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">鰲頭未可建黨釣,&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block">除是羽仙明月鉤。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">配樂(lè)視頻:黃河大合唱</p> <p class="ql-block">視頻伴唱《黃河爹娘》(孟素素):</p><p class="ql-block">黃河的水呀黃河長(zhǎng),</p><p class="ql-block">黃河岸邊好風(fēng)光,</p><p class="ql-block">大風(fēng)吹來(lái)黃土揚(yáng),</p><p class="ql-block">這里就是咱的家鄉(xiāng)。</p><p class="ql-block">黃河的水呀浪打浪,</p><p class="ql-block">黃土高坡大山崗,</p><p class="ql-block">大風(fēng)吹來(lái)晃一晃,</p><p class="ql-block">滿山遍野棗花兒香。</p><p class="ql-block">……</p><p class="ql-block">九十九道彎,</p><p class="ql-block">悠悠萬(wàn)里長(zhǎng),</p><p class="ql-block">一路奔騰向東流,</p><p class="ql-block">流到了咱心上……</p> <p class="ql-block">離開(kāi)了壺口瀑布景區(qū),驅(qū)車跨過(guò)黃河,前往下一站山西柳林-磧口古鎮(zhèn),車程320km。</p><p class="ql-block">On way to next stop Liulin of Shanxi Province, 320km drive. </p> <p class="ql-block">柳林小城,夜色很美。</p> <p class="ql-block">磧口古鎮(zhèn),小眾旅游景點(diǎn),古樸而富有韻味,<span style="font-size: 18px;">距離柳林縣城35km</span>。</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">磧口,是黃河邊</span>的一個(gè)古渡口。明清年間,<span style="font-size: 18px;">磧口古鎮(zhèn)</span>憑借黃河<span style="font-size: 18px;">渡口</span>水運(yùn)發(fā)展成為北方商貿(mào)重鎮(zhèn),享有“九曲黃河第一鎮(zhèn)”之美譽(yù),是晉商發(fā)祥地之一。鼎盛時(shí)期,磧口碼頭每天來(lái)往的船只有150艘之多,各類貨棧、票號(hào)、當(dāng)鋪、商鋪店肆300多家。</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">Qikou, an ancient town with a </span>ferry on the riverside of the Yellow River. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Qikou Town developed very well with commerce and trade, various warehouses, banking branches, pawnshops and shops <span style="font-size: 18px;"> by virtue of transport along the Yellow River and the ferry on the riverside.</span></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">黃河邊磧口古鎮(zhèn)民居,中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)民居的代表作,入選為中國(guó)紀(jì)念郵票“<span style="font-size: 18px;">中國(guó)民居”</span>圖案。</p><p class="ql-block">Residences with traditional Chinese architecture in the ancient town <span style="font-size: 18px;">Qikou. </span></p> <p class="ql-block">黑龍廟,始建于明代,為磧口古鎮(zhèn)的標(biāo)志性建筑。廟內(nèi)供奉龍王爺,保佑往來(lái)船只平安,風(fēng)調(diào)雨順生意興隆。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">清朝雍正年間,在黑龍廟內(nèi)興建樂(lè)樓,是山西省保存最完好的一處古戲樓。<span style="font-size: 18px;">戲樓下方為三孔窯洞,增強(qiáng)了擴(kuò)音功能,據(jù)說(shuō)唱戲時(shí)十里之外都能聽(tīng)到,聲音甚至能傳至黃河對(duì)岸陜西吳堡。</span></p> <p class="ql-block">這里有閻錫山于1913年設(shè)立的晉勝銀行、喬致庸大德通錢莊等票號(hào)。</p> <p class="ql-block">古鎮(zhèn)至今還保留許多老建筑和原始質(zhì)樸的居民生活形態(tài)。</p> <p class="ql-block">磧口古鎮(zhèn)窯洞式大四合院</p> <p class="ql-block">磧口黃河公路。</p> <p class="ql-block">自駕數(shù)千里,重走長(zhǎng)征路。</p><p class="ql-block">毛主席東渡黃河紀(jì)念碑,位<span style="font-size: 18px;">于山西磧口鎮(zhèn)高家塔村。對(duì)岸是陜北吳堡。</span></p><p class="ql-block">1948年3月23日,毛澤東、周恩來(lái)、任弼時(shí)率中共中央機(jī)關(guān)由陜北吳堡東渡黃河,進(jìn)入山西磧口鎮(zhèn),前往河北平山縣西柏坡。</p> <p class="ql-block">磧口黃河畫(huà)廊 <span style="font-size: 18px;">百里</span>水蝕浮雕景區(qū),游船碼頭。</p> <p class="ql-block">磧口黃河畫(huà)廊 百里水蝕浮雕景區(qū)。</p><p class="ql-block">黃河邊上三疊紀(jì)巖壁經(jīng)<span style="font-size: 18px;">千萬(wàn)年水蝕和風(fēng)化剝蝕,形成</span>天然浮雕或神秘圖形,妙趣橫生<span style="font-size: 18px;">,猶如畫(huà)廊</span>。</p> <p class="ql-block">磧口李家山村窯洞民居,坐落于磧口鎮(zhèn)南的黃土高坡上,與古鎮(zhèn)隔湫水河相望,距離<span style="font-size: 18px;">磧口古鎮(zhèn)5km。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">1989年10月,</span>著名畫(huà)家吳冠中到<span style="font-size: 18px;">磧口古鎮(zhèn)</span>李家山村采風(fēng)時(shí),發(fā)現(xiàn)這里的窯洞民居獨(dú)居特色,<span style="font-size: 18px;">古老講究,隱于大山深處,</span>像與世隔絕的桃花源,空靈而幽雅。<span style="font-size: 18px;">吳冠中老先生驚嘆李家山村古老原始而美麗,把這</span>當(dāng)做自己一生的三大發(fā)現(xiàn)之一。</p><p class="ql-block">由此,李家山村窯洞民居成為繪畫(huà)和攝影<span style="font-size: 18px;">采風(fēng)</span>的絕佳景地。</p><p class="ql-block">The cave dwellings with special architectural features at Lijiashan Village of Qikou, built in the middle of Qing Dynasty, were discovered by Wu Guanzhong, famous painter in China, when he came here to look for painting scenes from nature in October, 1989, thus the village became an excellent place for painting and photography of today.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">明清時(shí)期,磧口商阜繁榮。從明代開(kāi)始,<span style="font-size: 18px;">李氏家族世代在磧口繁衍經(jīng)商,到清中葉已成大戶,并</span><span style="font-size: 18px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">在</span><span style="font-size: 18px;">李家山</span><span style="font-size: 18px; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">大興土木</span><span style="font-size: 18px;">。</span>李家山村的建筑均以水磨磚對(duì)縫砌筑,建筑形式多以磚拱頂(窯洞)明柱廈檐四合院為主,且依山坐樓,氣勢(shì)恢宏。整個(gè)古村落隱于山谷之中,<span style="font-size: 18px;">從下面山溝到山坡頂,高下疊置,多達(dá)九層,布局和造型風(fēng)格獨(dú)特,別具韻味。</span></p> <p class="ql-block">李家山村大大小小有百十來(lái)窯洞院子,約 400間,220多戶人家。</p> <p class="ql-block">窯洞式明柱廈檐四合院,磚雕、木雕、石雕、匾額精美考究。</p> <p class="ql-block">現(xiàn)代窯洞院子,大氣而美麗。</p> <p class="ql-block">驅(qū)車回京,車程720km。走京昆高速,途徑盂縣服務(wù)區(qū)。這服務(wù)區(qū)很大很漂亮,有各式風(fēng)味餐廳,居然還有一個(gè)很大的咖啡吧,俺點(diǎn)了老潼關(guān)肉夾饃,再來(lái)一杯焦糖瑪奇朵咖啡,這是俺在國(guó)內(nèi)高速公路服務(wù)區(qū)見(jiàn)到有咖啡吧,也是第一次在服務(wù)區(qū)喝現(xiàn)磨咖啡,味道好極了,<span style="font-size: 18px;">真是太贊了</span>????</p><p class="ql-block">Traveling back <span style="font-size: 18px;">to Beijing</span> , 720km drive.</p><p class="ql-block">We stoped at Yuxian expressway service center for lunch, <span style="font-size: 18px;">very big and nice place </span>with many small restaurants and one big coffee bar. It is one of the several best expressway service centers in China <span style="font-size: 18px;">I saw.</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">回到了北京,藍(lán)天白云,烈日炎炎。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">?</span>行萬(wàn)里路,讀萬(wàn)卷書(shū)。北京-甘南之旅畫(huà)上了圓滿句號(hào),九色甘南和數(shù)千里黃河的秀麗<span style="font-size: 18px;">風(fēng)光、涼爽舒適的氣候和歷史人文風(fēng)情留在心中,增加了一些認(rèn)識(shí)。也很高興和大家分享一下。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">之前發(fā)過(guò)的幾篇游記作品在美篇平臺(tái)上都得到欄目主持人的認(rèn)可和推薦加“精”(列入“精選”),并得到很多朋友的關(guān)注點(diǎn)贊和美評(píng),每一篇閱讀人數(shù)都超過(guò)一萬(wàn),還有同學(xué)、朋友賦詩(shī)相和,讓俺深受感動(dòng)和鼓舞,再次一并衷心感謝??</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">愿歲月靜好,大家都健康平安,天天開(kāi)心????</span></p><p class="ql-block">摘錄自同學(xué)董先生:為黃同學(xué)甘南行四作</p><p class="ql-block">一、2023年7月28日</p><p class="ql-block">山青水碧天色藍(lán),</p><p class="ql-block">驅(qū)車偕妻望甘南。</p><p class="ql-block">旗幡飄處拂草綠,</p><p class="ql-block">金像耀時(shí)射莊嚴(yán)。</p><p class="ql-block">曲折欄桿通幽靜,</p><p class="ql-block">參差廟宇逗盤桓。</p><p class="ql-block">誰(shuí)家老翁貪國(guó)色,</p><p class="ql-block">一半辛苦一半甜。</p><p class="ql-block">二、2023年8月6日</p><p class="ql-block">高原景秀人跡松,</p><p class="ql-block">夜半寥落滿天星。</p><p class="ql-block">四千盤旋恐缺氧,</p><p class="ql-block">九百逶迤不怕風(fēng)。</p><p class="ql-block">廳飲咖啡飄兩味,</p><p class="ql-block">云過(guò)草場(chǎng)漫三峰。</p><p class="ql-block">法輪轉(zhuǎn)處福音起,</p><p class="ql-block">棧道通往湖水清。</p><p class="ql-block">三、2023年8月11日</p><p class="ql-block">云中行走上下坡,</p><p class="ql-block">草甸觀光賴好車。</p><p class="ql-block">日趨六百尋常事,</p><p class="ql-block">夜宿三千雅致窩。</p><p class="ql-block">肉啖牛羊香辣嘴,</p><p class="ql-block">風(fēng)餐醴泉甘甜喝。</p><p class="ql-block">幸有健體抗日月,</p><p class="ql-block">一路走來(lái)四面歌。</p><p class="ql-block">四、2023年8月18日</p><p class="ql-block">千曲百迴歸程忙,</p><p class="ql-block">入陜方知水漸黃。</p><p class="ql-block">壺口聽(tīng)瀑激深壑,</p><p class="ql-block">吳起觀碑憶大唐。</p><p class="ql-block">高原草疏走龍蛇,</p><p class="ql-block">低嶺樹(shù)茂蓄帝王。</p><p class="ql-block">退職不問(wèn)春秋事,</p><p class="ql-block">只向光陰量短長(zhǎng)。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">同學(xué)</span>盧女士和詩(shī):</p><p class="ql-block">除卻西關(guān)誰(shuí)更藍(lán),</p><p class="ql-block">惠得水草唯甘南。</p><p class="ql-block">云里磬音幽幽送,</p><p class="ql-block">高桿影移簌簌翻。</p><p class="ql-block">動(dòng)靜觀心常馳念,</p><p class="ql-block">通天古道自蜿蜒。</p><p class="ql-block">清寂大美幾絕色,</p><p class="ql-block">親近只為享福田。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">北航胡院長(zhǎng)和詩(shī):</p><p class="ql-block">年中暑季七月天,</p><p class="ql-block">燕趙甘南一線牽。</p><p class="ql-block">攀過(guò)高山拜古寺,</p><p class="ql-block">云游九洲似神仙。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">信息中心孫先生和詩(shī):</p><p class="ql-block">甘南風(fēng)光自駕游,</p><p class="ql-block">夫唱妻隨怡心悠。</p><p class="ql-block">中英文卷如詩(shī)畫(huà),</p><p class="ql-block">觀景悟理拔頭籌。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">來(lái)自英國(guó)朋友的美評(píng) Messages from the UK: What an amazing journey and beautifully presented. Thanks very much for sharing. Best wishes. David&nbsp;</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">My wife and I arrived in Beijing safely, and saw blue sky and strong sunshine in Beijing. </p><p class="ql-block">I loved to write what I saw and learned, then shared them with all friends whom I know well or I have not met in person. I always love to pass on the best things and stories about China to everyone including foreign friends. I would like to give my sincere thanks to all friends and readers for their kind attention, reading, thumb-up and encouragements. </p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">Wish everyone a cheerful life and good health.</span>??????</p>