<p>原創(chuàng)：倪捷兒 攝影：千喜</p> <p class="ql-block">Original: Ni Jie Photography: Qianxi</p> <p>水鄉(xiāng)夢(mèng)長(zhǎng)，古鎮(zhèn)每每在櫓聲中醒來(lái)。7000年前，這一帶屬于新石器時(shí)期的馬家浜文化圈，是先民的家園，文明的搖籃。2500年前，這里是春秋時(shí)期吳越兩國(guó)交界處，發(fā)生過(guò)戰(zhàn)事，演繹著歷史。1100多年前，唐朝咸通年間開(kāi)始建鎮(zhèn)，雖幾度起落，幾經(jīng)枯榮，但不改江南底色，延續(xù)著文脈。幾千年的中國(guó)，風(fēng)塵仆仆地走來(lái)，在杭嘉湖平原一處小橋流水人家美美地歇了一宿，濃縮成一段段美麗的故事，它的名字叫烏鎮(zhèn)——牽動(dòng)全世界鼠標(biāo)的互聯(lián)網(wǎng)小鎮(zhèn)。</p> <p class="ql-block">The dream of the water town is long, and the ancient town wakes up every time with the sound of the oar. 7,000 years ago, this area belonged to the Neolithic period of the Ma jia bang culture circle, which was the homeland of the ancestors and the cradle of civilization. 2,500 years ago, it was the border between the states of Yue and Wu during the Spring and Autumn period, where wars were fought and history unfolded. More than 1,100 years ago, during the Xiantong period of the Tang Dynasty, the town began to be built. Although it experienced ups and downs and ups and downs, it did not change the color of Jiangnan and continued the cultural heritage. For thousands of years, China has come and gone, and in the flatlands of Hangzhou, Jiaxing, and Huzhou, it has rested beautifully for a night. It has condensed into a series of beautiful stories, and its name is Wuzhen - an Internet town that moves the world's mouse.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)位于浙江省桐鄉(xiāng)市北端，地處富饒的杭嘉湖平原中心，屬太湖流域運(yùn)河水系。是中國(guó)首批歷史文化名鎮(zhèn)和中國(guó)魅力名鎮(zhèn)之一，5A級(jí)旅游景區(qū)，聯(lián)合國(guó)世界文化遺產(chǎn)保護(hù)單位。鎮(zhèn)區(qū)由十字形的水系劃分為東柵、西柵、南柵、和北柵四個(gè)區(qū)域，東柵是保護(hù)開(kāi)發(fā)的一期工程，2001年正式對(duì)外開(kāi)放。西柵是保護(hù)開(kāi)發(fā)的二期工程，歷時(shí)四載磨礪，投資近10多億，2017年正式對(duì)外開(kāi)放。東柵、西柵姐妹篇，完美呈現(xiàn)了中國(guó)江南水鄉(xiāng)古鎮(zhèn)的風(fēng)貌。</p> <p class="ql-block">Wuzhen is located at the northern end of Tongxiang City, Zhejiang Province, in the center of the prosperous Hangzhou-Jiaxing-Huzhou plain, and belongs to the Taihu River basin canal water system. It is one of the first batch of historical and cultural towns in China and one of the most charming towns in China. It is a 5A-level tourist attraction and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is divided into four areas: East Gate, West Gate, South Gate, and North Gate, by a cross-shaped water system. The East Gate is the first phase of protection and development, which was officially opened to the public in 2001. The West Gate is the second phase of protection and development, which has been polished for four years and invested nearly 1 billion yuan. It was officially opened to the public in2017. The East Gate and West Gate are sisters, which perfectly presents the scenery of the ancient water towns in Jiangnan.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)除了擁有小橋流水人家的水鄉(xiāng)風(fēng)情和宏大完整的明清古建筑群之外，還散發(fā)出濃郁的歷史底蘊(yùn)和文化氣息，百年老屋中的歡聲笑語(yǔ)傳遞著水鄉(xiāng)人家的溫暖親情；傳承五代的醬園依然醬香濃郁；染坊曬架上的藍(lán)印花布天然樸素；三寸金蓮館神秘奇異；名人故居、深宅大院風(fēng)華依舊；明清建筑曲雅大氣；民間工藝巧奪天工；古樹(shù)濃蔭，清溪環(huán)流；天然濕地，白鷺成群；水閣汲水，晨靄行舟。</p> <p class="ql-block">In addition to the water town charm of small bridges, flowing water, and thatched-roof houses, and the grand and complete ancient buildings of the Ming and Qing dynasties, Wuzhen also exudes a rich history and cultural atmosphere. The laughter and joy in the old houses of a hundred years old convey the warm family affection of the water town people; the soy sauce factory that has been passed down for five generations still has a strong aroma of soy sauce; the blue printed cloth on the drying rack of the dyeing shop is natural and simple; the three-inch lotus foot hall is mysterious and strange; the former residences of famous people and the grand mansions still retain their elegance; the ancient buildings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties are elegant and grand; the folk crafts are exquisite; the ancient trees provide dense shade, and the clear stream flows around; the natural wetland is home to flocks of egrets; the water pavilion draws water, and the boat sails in the morning mist.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的水。一條河從春秋時(shí)期流來(lái)，南北穿烏鎮(zhèn)。京杭大運(yùn)河流近烏鎮(zhèn)，分出一支從鎮(zhèn)的西北角注入，一直往前走是河，略一分神就成了港，稍一駐腳便成了湖，七拐八彎就織成了水網(wǎng)。烏鎮(zhèn)依水建街，傍水設(shè)市，家家是臨河閣樓，戶戶有汲水曉窗。橋在水上，上橋下橋，是烏鎮(zhèn)人的茶余飯后；船在水上，上船下船，是烏鎮(zhèn)人的出門(mén)與回家。臨水的那一邊，是比心事還長(zhǎng)的長(zhǎng)廊，可以坐，可以臥，可以話桑麻，可以說(shuō)情話。</p> <p class="ql-block">The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its water. A river has flowed through Wuzhen since the Spring and Autumn period. The Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal flows near Wuzhen and splits into a branch that flows into the northwest corner of the town. As you walk further, it becomes a river, then a harbor, then a lake, and finally a network of waterways. Wuzhen builds its streets along the water and sets up markets by the water. Every household has a riverside pavilion, and every household has a morning window for drawing water. Bridges are on the water, and going up and down the bridge is what Wuzhen people do after tea. Boats are on the water, and going on and off the boat is what Wuzhen people do when they go out and come back home. On the side by the water, there is a long corridor that is longer than one's worries, where one can sit, lie down, talk about mulberry and hemp, and say sweet nothings.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的水。西柵河寬不過(guò)20米，雞犬之聲相聞。墻根躺三兩排木椅，支三兩根木柱，下八九級(jí)石階，便有搖櫓船蕩著波兒在候著。獨(dú)自坐在平頂?shù)膿u擼船里，什么都可以想，什么都可以不想，任綠波拍打你的心靈，輕輕的蕩，悠悠的喜。烏鎮(zhèn)是一個(gè)可以發(fā)呆的地方，直到你呆若木雞，凝成一幅壁上畫(huà)、岸邊圖、水中景。烏鎮(zhèn)就像一塊溫潤(rùn)的江南玉，任風(fēng)霜雨打精心地雕，細(xì)細(xì)地磨，在流水時(shí)光里淡淡的滋養(yǎng)著自己。</p> <p class="ql-block">The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its water. The width of the West Village River is no more than 20 meters, and the sounds of chickens and dogs can be heard. There are three or four rows of wooden chairs at the foot of the wall, supported by three or four wooden pillars, with eight or nine stone steps below. There are rowing boats rocking on the waves waiting for you. Sitting alone in a flat-roofed rowing boat, you can think about anything or not think about anything, let the green waves beat your soul, gently rocking and leisurely happy. Wuzhen is a place where you can daydream, until you become as still as a chicken, and become a painting on the wall, a picture by the shore, and a scene in the water. Wuzhen is like a smooth piece of jade from the south of the Yangtze River, carefully carved and polished by wind, frost, and rain, nourishing itself gently in the flowing time.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的橋。世上沒(méi)有兩片相同的樹(shù)葉，烏鎮(zhèn)沒(méi)有二座一樣的橋。烏鎮(zhèn)的橋始建于南宋，今日已有80多座，堪稱水鄉(xiāng)古橋博物館。單孔橋、三孔橋和石拱橋，造型不一各成風(fēng)景?；蚯f嚴(yán)持重，結(jié)結(jié)實(shí)實(shí)，披一身斑駁的綠苔；或縱身躍然，寥寥幾筆，如國(guó)畫(huà)里一勾靈巧的飛白；或樸素平淡，簡(jiǎn)簡(jiǎn)單單，像老農(nóng)民的汗巾，隨意擱在河的腰身上。石橋上，一些建有古色古香的亭閣，一些雕刻著精細(xì)的圖案或?qū)φ坦ふ臉蚵?lián)。</p> <p class="ql-block">The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its bridges. There are no two identical leaves in the world, and there are no two identical bridges in Wuzhen. The bridges in Wuzhen were built during the Southern Song Dynasty, and today there are more than 80 of them, which can be called a museum of ancient water bridges. Single-arch bridges, three-arch bridges, and stone arches, each with its own unique shape and scenery. Some are solemn and dignified, covered with a patchwork of green moss; some are graceful and nimble, with a few strokes like a delicate white in Chinese painting; some are simple and plain, like an old farmer's handkerchief, casually placed on the river's waist. On the stone bridges, some have ancient-style pavilions, and some have exquisite carvings or well-matched bridge couplets.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的橋。它目睹了多少的別離和等待。倚橋頋盼，憑欄張望，離鄉(xiāng)或還鄉(xiāng)的日子，大多在水天茫茫的季節(jié)，在慈母茫茫的眼神里。橋鄉(xiāng)烏鎮(zhèn)是個(gè)有故事的地方，江南女子身著一襲藍(lán)印花布旗袍，撐一柄青傘，最是那一低頭的溫柔，把個(gè)裊裊娜娜留在空空蒙蒙的畫(huà)里。在烏鎮(zhèn)人眼里，橋不單是路的延伸，是一座可演繹千百年悲歡故事的舞臺(tái)，可以成為一生故鄉(xiāng)夢(mèng)的寄托，還可讓多情的人有個(gè)展目馳懷的所在。</p> <p class="ql-block">The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its bridges. It has witnessed countless separations and waits. Standing by the bridge, leaning on the railing, looking out, the days of leaving or returning home are mostly in the season of endless water and sky, in the mother's endless eyes. Wuzhen, a place with stories, is a place where Jiangnan women wear a blue-printed cheongsam and hold an azure umbrella. It is the gentle moment when they bow their heads, leaving a graceful figure in the empty and hazy painting. In the eyes of the people of Wuzhen, the bridge is not only an extension of the road, but also a stage where thousands of years of joys and sorrows can be performed. It can be a place where one's hometown dreams can be nurtured, and it can also be a place for the sentimental to gaze and dream.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的水閣。烏鎮(zhèn)民居多依河而建，街與河道平行，臨河的房屋稱為“下岸”，下岸的房屋就稱為水閣。人們以木柱或石柱立在河上，架上橫梁和木板，就成為伸展在河道上的閣樓。東柵和西柵，逶迤數(shù)里的水閣綿延成最美的風(fēng)景線。坐一小船，蕩波而去，碧水蜿蜒，小橋映影，櫓聲欸乃中水閣長(zhǎng)卷在眼前徐徐展開(kāi)，臨河窗戶里晃動(dòng)著忙碌或悠閑的身影，窗口吊蘭垂下長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的葉子，恍惚間，你仿佛也沉入這個(gè)千年的枕水之夢(mèng)境。</p> <p class="ql-block">The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its water pavilions. Wuzhen's residential buildings are built along the river, and the streets run parallel to the river. Houses by the river are called "lower shore," and the houses on the lower shore are called water pavilions. People stand on wooden or stone pillars on the river, set up beams and planks, and become a loft extending over the river. The water pavilions in Dongzha and Xizha stretch for several miles, forming the most beautiful scenery. Sitting in a small boat and drifting away, the blue water meanders, the small bridge reflects the shadow, and the sound of the oar creaks as the water pavilion unfurls slowly in front of you. The busy or leisurely figures in the windows of the riverside houses sway, and the hanging ivy of the window hangs down long leaves. In a trance, you seem to sink into this thousand-year-old dream of water.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的廊棚。烏鎮(zhèn)人叫河岸為幫岸，幫岸上常有廊棚，就是一邊連著屋頂?shù)拈芙?。廊棚全部為木結(jié)構(gòu)的柱子，柱下往往還墊著個(gè)鼓形的石墩，廊棚一色的魚(yú)鱗黑瓦蓋頂，下面往往是一條石板道，隨河曲折。廊棚一般坐落在面北的街上，大多臨河，也有居中的。廊棚沿河一側(cè)設(shè)有靠背的木板長(zhǎng)凳，當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Q為美人靠，倚在美人靠上，看天空，看水波，看湖面，看倒影，河里小船時(shí)而穿過(guò)，欸乃有聲，只覺(jué)得時(shí)光在這一刻停止了。</p> <p class="ql-block">The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its covered walkways. The people of Wuzhen call the banks of the river "bang jian," and along the banks, there are often covered walkways, which are one-sided eaves connected to the roofs. The covered walkways are all made of wooden columns, and under the columns, there is often a drum-shaped stone pedestal. The covered walkways are covered with fish-scale black tiles, and under them, there is often a stone path winding along the river. The covered walkways are generally located on streets facing north, most of them are along the river, and there are also some in the middle. Along the river side of the covered walkways, there are wooden bench seats with backs, which the locals call "beauty's seat." Sitting on the beauty's seat, looking at the sky, the water waves, the lake, and the reflection, small boats sometimes pass through the river, making a sound, and one feels that time has stopped at this moment.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的街。東柵大街長(zhǎng)約0.9公里，西柵1.8公里，街面寬3至5米不等，由已被歲月打磨得锃亮的青石板鋪成。老街大多沿河，街與河之間也是房子，河中生柱，水上架閣。窗戶很講究，大窗套小窗，窗葉微啟，爬墻虎蒼蒼地攀緣著窗格。街兩邊是馬頭墻隔出的一間間店鋪和住房，屋挨屋，墻跟墻，門(mén)通門(mén)。門(mén)樓上有精美的磚雕、石雕、木雕，處處流露出這個(gè)古鎮(zhèn)昔日的繁華，看著斑駁痕跡的百年老店，讓人恍惚間有穿越時(shí)空的感覺(jué)。</p> <p class="ql-block">The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its streets. The East Gate Street is about 0.9 kilometers long, and the West Gate Street is 1.8 kilometers long. The width of the street varies from 3 to 5 meters, and it is paved with green stone slabs that have been polished by time. Most of the old streets are along the river, and there are houses between the street and the river. There are pillars in the river and pavilions on the water. The windows are very elaborate, with large window frames and small windows, and the window louvers are slightly open, with creeping ivy climbing up the window grids. The streets on both sides are separated by horse-head walls, with one after another of shops and houses, with houses next to houses, walls next to walls, and doors leading to doors. There are exquisite brick carvings, stone carvings, and wood carvings on the door towers, showing the prosperity of this ancient town in the past. Looking at the century-old shops with their faded traces, it makes people feel as if they have traveled through time.</p> <p class="ql-block">烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的巷。臨河邊的小巷，短得像一聲橫笛，河邊隨風(fēng)搖曳的楊柳，來(lái)不及與它打聲招呼，轉(zhuǎn)眼就不見(jiàn)了。短巷該有浣紗的女子吧，恍惚間聽(tīng)到水聲，忍不住回頭再望，只見(jiàn)是一條搖擼船駛過(guò)，短巷盡頭仍是空無(wú)一人。蔓延到古鎮(zhèn)荒草邊的小巷，又悠長(zhǎng)得像一曲琵琶，悠長(zhǎng)得連心都陷進(jìn)去了。拾掇起記憶的殘片，走向幽深或者遙遠(yuǎn)，讓你牽腸掛肚卻又看不盡、想不清。在長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)短短的小巷間流連久了，仿佛連人也回不來(lái)了。</p> <p class="ql-block">The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its alleys. The small alley by the river is as short as a transverse flute, and the willows swaying in the wind by the river are gone before you can say hello. There should be women washing clothes in the short alley, and in the haze, you hear the sound of water and can't help but look back. What you see is a rowing boat passing by, and at the end of the short alley, there is still no one. The small alley that extends to the edge of the ancient town's wild grass is as long as a pipa, long enough to make your heart sink. Gather up the fragments of memory and walk into the depths or the distance, making you worried and yet unable to see or think clearly. After lingering in the long and short alleys for a long time, it seems that even you can't come back.</p> <p>烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的街燈。小巷深深，得有路燈來(lái)照亮，烏鎮(zhèn)的街燈很低調(diào)、很適度。鐵皮白罩，簡(jiǎn)潔、端莊、秀美、素樸，掛在街巷的角落，不夸張、不擋道、不遮視線，但它卻是青磚粉墻上不能缺少的一筆，是烏鎮(zhèn)的縮影。曙光初上就隱退，只裝點(diǎn)街巷的風(fēng)景；夜幕一降便上崗，在該亮處發(fā)光。月讀天，風(fēng)讀地，巷口處遙遙相對(duì)的，是一只陳年的燈籠，輕輕地晃，敲著歲月的更。柔柔的街燈照亮夜歸的人，他們的心里是暖暖的，柔柔的街燈照亮盼歸的人，她們的心里是喜喜的。</p> <p>烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的倒影。烏鎮(zhèn)的大部分景物，都有它水中的倒影，仿佛怕年華逝去，常常臨水自照，時(shí)間久了，水上的和水里的，已分不清哪邊才是真實(shí)的世界。水悠長(zhǎng)又波瀾不驚，河道不是很寬，可是恰好完整地映入岸上的風(fēng)情。選一座橋坐著，自己也坐成倒影的一部分，久久的像一個(gè)癡兒。橋影和燈影，是水中倒影最美的兩個(gè)部分。橋和影，在水面相接，仿佛長(zhǎng)久擁抱，永不分離；燈和影，卻像是把陽(yáng)光下的花和霧里的花，一并地展示給你看，無(wú)論清晰與朦朧，都讓人生出很多的幽思來(lái)。</p> <p>烏鎮(zhèn)的美，美在它的布局。烏鎮(zhèn)的整體建筑，像極了一幅幅酣暢淋漓的書(shū)法——以河面為宣紙，舒舒展展地鋪陳開(kāi)來(lái)；以行舟為字體，疏密相間，動(dòng)靜相宜，真如舟行水上一般；以幫岸和水閣為裝裱，濃墨重彩地格外生動(dòng)起來(lái)。鳥(niǎo)瞰烏鎮(zhèn)，房屋林林總總、擠擠密密，老街高高低低、曲曲折折，滿眼是緊湊與生動(dòng)，像茂密的藤蘿做自然的舒卷。這樣的手筆，這樣的杰作，只能來(lái)自熱愛(ài)生活的心靈，才能與千年文化的傳承相匹配。陳向宏和他的團(tuán)隊(duì)做到了，千年古鎮(zhèn)烏鎮(zhèn)做到了，無(wú)限敬佩。</p> <p>烏鎮(zhèn)，是一個(gè)充滿詩(shī)意可以做夢(mèng)的地方。在那兒住下，早起，晚睡。一個(gè)人漫步在青石板的路上，或者是幽幽的長(zhǎng)巷里，或者是厚重的石橋上；一個(gè)人傻看著波瀾不驚、波光瀲滟的河面，或者是一扇半掩著的、縷著花格的木窗，或者是一墻爬滿藤蔓青苔、高高茸立的馬頭墻，便會(huì)似醒非醒地自言自語(yǔ)了。明明我是第一次來(lái)，昨這般熟悉和親切，是前世的記憶？還是今生同樣江南水鄉(xiāng)長(zhǎng)大的緣故，或者電影里、書(shū)本里描述的場(chǎng)景烙在了腦海里。此刻的心很溫柔，溫柔的想做一個(gè)長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)跨越時(shí)空的夢(mèng)。</p> <p>2001年，以觀光游為主的東柵景區(qū)正式對(duì)外開(kāi)放。東柵景區(qū)西起應(yīng)家橋，沿東市河兩岸向東至逢源雙橋止，占地1.98平方公里。由老街、東市河、明清古廳、水閣、廊棚、展館、作坊及11座古橋等組成，自東往西復(fù)往東形成一個(gè)回路，依次分別為傳統(tǒng)作坊區(qū)（三白酒作坊、藍(lán)印花布作坊等）、傳統(tǒng)文化區(qū)（江南百床館、江南民俗館、江南木雕館、矛盾古居、修真觀和古戲臺(tái)等）、傳統(tǒng)民居區(qū)、傳統(tǒng)商鋪和水鄉(xiāng)風(fēng)情區(qū)等。老街已有百余年的歷史，兩側(cè)俱為清未民國(guó)初民居廳堂。</p> <p>2007年2月，西柵景區(qū)正式對(duì)外開(kāi)放。西柵景區(qū)占地3.4平方公里。景區(qū)四面由“護(hù)鎮(zhèn)河”包圍，將景區(qū)分割成12個(gè)島嶼式獨(dú)立街區(qū)，72坐石橋坐落其中，景區(qū)北側(cè)為天然濕地、自然農(nóng)墾區(qū)、果園等。西柵老街全長(zhǎng)1.8公里，保存完好明清建筑及古屋老廳25萬(wàn)多平方米。街區(qū)內(nèi)名勝古跡（烏將軍廟、昭明書(shū)院等）手工作坊（草木本色染坊、益大絲號(hào)、敘昌醬園、亦昌冶坊、三雕作坊）、經(jīng)典展館、宗教建筑、民俗風(fēng)情、休閑場(chǎng)所讓人流連忘返，人和環(huán)境、自然、建筑和諧融合，自然風(fēng)光美不勝收。</p> <p>寒窗巨著垂青史，功德誰(shuí)能用斗量。東柵，是鎮(zhèn)上鐘靈毓秀、文昌人杰之處。西端，立志書(shū)院、文昌閣旁是茅盾家；東端，財(cái)神灣后有木心家。一西一東，雙星相耀，矛盾，文學(xué)巨匠；木心，文壇偶像。當(dāng)年，矛盾大展宏圖，樹(shù)文壇豐碑。其時(shí)，木心正是小小少年，耳聞目染，見(jiàn)賢思齊，塔下讀書(shū)承澤“矛盾書(shū)屋”。日后，木心文學(xué)藝術(shù)成就斐然，贏得生前身后名。從此，烏鎮(zhèn)東柵一條街，因他們而輝煌。相同的鄉(xiāng)里故土，彼此的文學(xué)藝術(shù)緣分，這樣神奇的故事，怎么就單單發(fā)生在烏鎮(zhèn)東柵？</p> <p>湖山自昔無(wú)今古，代有名賢地更靈。烏鎮(zhèn)地沃民秀，誕育俊彥無(wú)數(shù)?？资?、陸氏、唐氏第眾多名門(mén)望族、書(shū)香門(mén)第，繁衍綿延，幾乎左右了烏鎮(zhèn)數(shù)百年的文脈。沈東??、李樂(lè)、鮑廷博、嚴(yán)辰、湯國(guó)梨、沈澤民、王會(huì)悟、嚴(yán)獨(dú)鶴等都在各自領(lǐng)域創(chuàng)造非凡成就。晚唐丞相裴休、明代旅游家徐霞客等名賢碩儒，足跡頻顧水鄉(xiāng)古鎮(zhèn)，村頭巷尾舊跡依稀，詩(shī)文佳話流傳至今。烏鎮(zhèn)的鄉(xiāng)賢名人，有的走出烏鎮(zhèn)，建樹(shù)客地，輝煌他鄉(xiāng)；有的則留在家鄉(xiāng)，造福百姓，辛勤耕耘。他們是烏鎮(zhèn)的代表和驕傲。</p> <p>唐代銀杏宛在，昭明書(shū)室依稀。綠水澹澹，清風(fēng)悠悠，傳唱著烏鎮(zhèn)似水年華的動(dòng)人旋律；古橋默默，小巷幽幽，見(jiàn)證了烏鎮(zhèn)悠久燦爛的歷史奇怪。歷經(jīng)歲月滄桑，古道大都湮沒(méi)，景觀依稀尚存。所幸的是，沿河而筑、“十”字布局的鎮(zhèn)區(qū)整體格局未變，以街巷河道構(gòu)成的交通脈絡(luò)依然清晰，經(jīng)過(guò)“修舊如故”的民居、道路、橋梁等，依舊保存了關(guān)于過(guò)往的記憶碎片，可以讓人遙憶與想象。如今的烏鎮(zhèn)，被人們稱為“江南水鄉(xiāng)古老文明的活態(tài)博物館”。</p> <p>烏鎮(zhèn)街、坊、巷的數(shù)量和規(guī)模非同小可，俗稱四門(mén)八坊數(shù)十巷，據(jù)民國(guó)《烏青鎮(zhèn)志》記載，當(dāng)時(shí)尚存有八街八坊六十八巷的規(guī)模，歷盡百年風(fēng)雨，坊和巷發(fā)生了很大變化，但大街的格局依在，尤其是觀前街、東大街、南大街、西大街等，不僅保存完好，其功能還在發(fā)揮。老街由青石板鋪成，已被歲月打磨得锃亮。街兩邊是馬頭墻隔出的一間間店鋪和住房，臨街的房屋由可拆卸的木板構(gòu)成墻壁。慢慢的走，慢慢的看，便可耗去大半日的光陰。</p> <p>位于修真觀廣場(chǎng)的古戲臺(tái)，建于清乾隆十四年（1749），為歇山式屋頂，飛檐翹角，莊重中透著秀逸。戲臺(tái)兩邊的臺(tái)柱上有副對(duì)聯(lián)：“鑼鼓一場(chǎng)，喚醒人間春夢(mèng)；宮商兩音，傳來(lái)天上神仙?！闭猩戏綉乙粰M額“以古為鑒”。辛亥革命后，這里是群眾集會(huì)的場(chǎng)所，也曾是宣傳抗日的舞臺(tái)。今日的舞臺(tái)從早到晚都有演出，演的是桐鄉(xiāng)的地方戲花鼓戲，它是烏鎮(zhèn)民間藝術(shù)的一朵奇葩，被挖掘恢復(fù)，外來(lái)者可能聽(tīng)不懂吚吚呀呀的唱腔，但從臺(tái)下原住民如癡如醉的表情中，可深深感悟到傳統(tǒng)文化的無(wú)窮魅力。</p> <p>2013年，烏鎮(zhèn)戲劇節(jié)橫空降落在小鎮(zhèn)上，習(xí)慣于看越劇、花鼓戲，聽(tīng)評(píng)書(shū)的烏鎮(zhèn)人津津有味地在家門(mén)口欣賞著這些現(xiàn)代藝術(shù)，并不感到詫異。在他們看來(lái)，戲劇就是生活，而生活又像是一場(chǎng)場(chǎng)精彩的戲劇。一千年前如此，一千年后依然如此。戲劇節(jié)一年一度，每天都有近百場(chǎng)大小不一的演出，每天都會(huì)有驚喜等待發(fā)現(xiàn)。古老與現(xiàn)代，東方與西方，不同的文化糅雜拼合在一起，竟然如此和諧融洽，風(fēng)情萬(wàn)種，這樣的烏鎮(zhèn)又怎不令人著迷。</p> <p>烏鎮(zhèn)人最密不可分的生活精華都凝在了與烏鎮(zhèn)的水相連的三只缸中。一是酒缸，三白酒的醇香，早早繞過(guò)了前面的弄堂，用江南百姓生活的瞬間濃烈挑逗遠(yuǎn)方游客探幽的興奮。二是染缸，宏源泰藍(lán)白相間的布段，樸素和綿長(zhǎng)，不動(dòng)聲色地謀殺著剛從花綠世界跌進(jìn)古鎮(zhèn)人們的相機(jī)內(nèi)存。三是醬缸，醬缸沉香，百轉(zhuǎn)流長(zhǎng)。今日西柵通安橋南，《敘昌醬園》的金字招牌仍風(fēng)采依舊，空氣中依然彌漫著那種沉淀在烏鎮(zhèn)人骨髓里的韻味，透入肺腑，讓人的味蕾在墜落間品出了人生的滋味。</p> <p>慢步走在東柵大街長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的青石板路上，突然被一陣醇厚的酒香襲中，三白酒的醇香和甜酒釀的糯香，在空氣里飄蕩著。循著微醺的空氣，尋到了三白酒的店鋪，掌柜的一臉和氣，掌柜背后的墻上，貼著祖師爺高公生的畫(huà)像，更加地一臉和氣。我好奇地拐進(jìn)店后的酒坊，迎面墻上是一個(gè)大大的“酒”字，一面藍(lán)色酒幌掛在后坊，上書(shū)“千年古鎮(zhèn)，百年糟坊”。再往里走，便是熱氣蒸騰，酒香濃郁。釀酒的漢子們各自忙碌著，浸白米的，挑酒缸，搬酒壇子的，瞇縫著眼睛品嘗新酒的，都沉醉在各自的的勞作中，我也看醉了，醺醉了。</p> <p>三白酒坊又稱高公生糟坊，始創(chuàng)于明朝初年，譽(yù)為御酒。高公生糟坊為前店后坊格局，主要生產(chǎn)三種產(chǎn)品，三白酒、白糯米酒和甜白酒。何謂三白酒？《烏青鎮(zhèn)志》上說(shuō)“以白米、白面、白水成之，故有此名”。三白酒以糯米為主要原料，生產(chǎn)要經(jīng)過(guò)大米浸淋、蒸飯、攤涼、下缸、糖化、前期發(fā)酵、后期發(fā)酵、固體分離、蒸餾和儲(chǔ)藏陳釀幾道環(huán)節(jié)。產(chǎn)品具有香氣濃郁、酒味醇厚、入口柔綿、回味爽凈、余香不絕的特點(diǎn)，受到百姓的喜愛(ài)。置身于酒坊巨大的蒸籠邊看涓涓佳釀滴落壇中，著實(shí)是件美事。</p> <p>中國(guó)的藍(lán)印花布世界聞名，烏鎮(zhèn)則是藍(lán)印花布的原產(chǎn)地之一。宏源泰染坊始創(chuàng)于宋元年間，系藍(lán)印花布制作基地，也是花布制品集散中心。藍(lán)印花布，又稱藥斑布、拷花布，是我國(guó)傳統(tǒng)的民間工藝精品，已有上千年的印染歷史。以前，江南一帶農(nóng)村家家戶戶都使用藍(lán)花印布，窗簾、頭巾、圍裙、包袱、帳子、臺(tái)布等都用它來(lái)做。至今，烏鎮(zhèn)藍(lán)印花布的印染還遵循著祖輩留下的工藝，紋路設(shè)計(jì)、花稿刻制、涂花版、拷花、染色、曬干等均沿用土法，以其天然田園氣息受到歡迎。</p> <p>位于西柵的草木本色染坊是烏鎮(zhèn)手工環(huán)保印染晾曬大型工坊。與東柵的宏源泰染坊不同的是，西柵的草木木色染坊除了以藍(lán)草為原料漿染制作藍(lán)印花布工藝外，還有獨(dú)特的“彩拷”工藝流程，“彩拷”布染色彩豐富，色漿從當(dāng)?shù)氐牟枞~、桑樹(shù)皮、烏桕樹(shù)葉等草木原料中提取。染坊曬布場(chǎng)地由青磚鋪就，豎立著密密麻麻的高桿和階梯式曬布架，規(guī)模相當(dāng)龐大。那曬場(chǎng)掛著一排排印花的布匹，隨風(fēng)飄蕩，像及夕陽(yáng)中晃著小腰身的重柳，也像極步履婀娜的江南女子，讓你一下子就進(jìn)入溫婉的世界。</p> <p>中國(guó)是醬油生產(chǎn)起源最早的國(guó)家，距今已有兩千多年的歷史。烏鎮(zhèn)人陶敘昌在清咸豐九年（1859）創(chuàng)立了以自己名字為號(hào)的敘昌醬園，有150多年的歷史。其醬品都采用傳統(tǒng)手工釀制法，前店后坊，自產(chǎn)自銷，主要生產(chǎn)瓣醬、醬油、醬菜和醬鴨等系列醬制產(chǎn)品，產(chǎn)品口味獨(dú)特，深受歡迎。每年春秋，醬園收購(gòu)鄰近村鎮(zhèn)的優(yōu)質(zhì)黃豆、蠶豆等原料，蒸熟之后，攤在竹匾混合面粉和醬曲，再放到曲房中進(jìn)行72小時(shí)左右的制曲，接下來(lái)便是經(jīng)過(guò)長(zhǎng)達(dá)半年的自然曬露、發(fā)酵釀制，整個(gè)制作流程才算完成。</p> <p>走進(jìn)敘昌醬園，映入眼簾的就是滿院子青灰色的醬缸，缸身上“敘昌醬園”、“咸豐年間”的字樣昭示著醬園悠遠(yuǎn)的歷史。如若是大晴天，醬缸都被揭去了竹編的大斗竺，盡情地飽吮著陽(yáng)光的味道，數(shù)十米外都能聞到濃郁的醬香。這香味也勾起了童年的記憶，在那個(gè)貧瘠的年代，豆醬是早餐絕好的佐料，醬三丁、醬三絲和醬爆蔬菜則在中晚餐之間輪回。春節(jié)了，屋檐下掛滿了醬色的雞鴨魚(yú)肉，盼著年三十，只要二片，就可以狼吞虎咽地把一大碗米飯吃個(gè)精光，醬味支配著幼小的我的味覺(jué)全部。</p> <p>亦昌冶金創(chuàng)建于明嘉靖年間，創(chuàng)建人湖州鐵匠沈濟(jì)，時(shí)為浙北唯一一家冶坊，烏鎮(zhèn)冶業(yè)從此開(kāi)端。亦昌冶坊建筑結(jié)構(gòu)獨(dú)特，所用立柱全用石料雕琢而成，當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Q“石腳屋”，其作用是防止冶煉時(shí)濺出的火花引燃木料。天井中安放一口大鍋，系清同治五年（1866年）沈家煉官爐建爐100周年之際冶煉而成。工匠們依然使用傳統(tǒng)的澆鑄工藝制作鐵器，只是昔日的煤炭旺火改成了電爐熔鐵，風(fēng)箱扇風(fēng)也換成了鼓風(fēng)機(jī)助燃，但選料仍然是優(yōu)質(zhì)的純生鐵，制作工藝也一如祖輩的繁復(fù)精致。</p> <p>烏鎮(zhèn)素有“絲綢之鄉(xiāng)”之稱，物產(chǎn)富足，其地宜桑，鄉(xiāng)民多以養(yǎng)蠶作綿為生。益大絲號(hào)始創(chuàng)于光緒初年（1875），創(chuàng)始人沈永昌，是一家包括種桑、養(yǎng)蠶、繅絲、制絲和造綿為一體、聲譽(yù)卓著的百年老店?？椩爝x用當(dāng)?shù)孛a(chǎn)生絲、鵝絨和孔雀翎、金銀線，大花縷機(jī)里經(jīng)過(guò)一百道工序才能織出成品，一天僅能織5～6厘米，可謂“寸錦寸金”，該產(chǎn)品又稱“烏錦”。想感受悠久的江南蠶桑文化，可在作坊觀看國(guó)寶級(jí)的烏錦織造工藝和珍品，并親手在古老的繅絲機(jī)上操作一番，可獲得一種好奇心的滿足感。</p> <p>水上市場(chǎng)是水鄉(xiāng)人民傍河成埠，因水成市的一個(gè)真實(shí)寫(xiě)照，水上市場(chǎng)人稱“水市口”，是烏鎮(zhèn)人生活貿(mào)易中最重要的組成部分。每逢集市期間，四鄉(xiāng)八鄰的鎮(zhèn)村居民們都習(xí)慣在清晨搖著船出來(lái)喝早茶，順便趕個(gè)早市，把家種的農(nóng)產(chǎn)品帶到集市買(mǎi)賣(mài)。臨河的居民只要吆喝一聲，船就會(huì)搖到水閣邊，不出門(mén)也可以買(mǎi)到新鮮的水果蔬菜。水上集市延續(xù)了千百年，而今，于景行橋隔西市河相望的水域，在傳承傳統(tǒng)集市的基礎(chǔ)上，又重新規(guī)劃調(diào)整了集市。集市商品品類更為豐富，質(zhì)量更有保障。</p> <p>西柵的水上市場(chǎng)被一條東西走向的木棧橋一分為二，木棧橋與景行橋隔西市河相望，水域東西兩側(cè)臨河都建有水閣。水鄉(xiāng)多的是水產(chǎn)，沿街一字?jǐn)[開(kāi)的幾個(gè)紅色大桶，裝滿了四鄉(xiāng)居民捕獲的龍蝦、甲魚(yú)等水產(chǎn)，鮮活水靈；南來(lái)北往的干貨也是集市的主角，帶上一袋嘎嘣脆的爽口小食，優(yōu)哉游哉。要說(shuō)水上集市最出彩的，自然是河面上的船只。船只載著大米、蔬果、新鮮小玩意在河面穿梭。只要你有購(gòu)買(mǎi)的需求，船夫便會(huì)把船搖櫓過(guò)來(lái)，前來(lái)兜售。傳統(tǒng)水鄉(xiāng)的生活方式，也在一招一式中顯現(xiàn)。</p> <p>醒來(lái)的烏鎮(zhèn)，從曙色里鉆出來(lái)那么多的船，或撐一支長(zhǎng)篙，或搖一柄爛槳，聚向水市口。晨霧還沒(méi)散去，水市口就熙熙攘攘熱鬧起來(lái)，八方來(lái)船已擠滿了河道，兩邊的水閣里，茶館、肉鋪、小吃店、豆腐攤也早早的卸下了門(mén)板開(kāi)張了，水鄉(xiāng)的一天拉開(kāi)了序幕。集市上的小吃一字?jǐn)[開(kāi)：蔥香陣陣的燒餅、帶著異地風(fēng)味的煎餅果子、噴香松軟的炒栗子，若是真正的吃客，一定會(huì)來(lái)上一份獨(dú)屬于小鎮(zhèn)的早點(diǎn)：煎餃、餛飩和大肉包。小蔥點(diǎn)綴，骨湯打底，要的就是早晨的一口“鮮極”，美味極了。</p> <p>“小鎮(zhèn)不是用來(lái)懷念的，是用來(lái)生活的，不僅是為老年人所需要，更多的是為年輕人所喜愛(ài)?！边@是陳向宏總裁愛(ài)說(shuō)的一句話。自1999年來(lái)，他和他的團(tuán)隊(duì)在政府的高度重視和大力支持下，第一件事是做好歷史風(fēng)貌的整體保護(hù)，注重修舊如故、以存其真。如果東柵是一種靜態(tài)的保護(hù)，那么西柵就是一種動(dòng)態(tài)的保護(hù)。西柵對(duì)老街所有建筑的內(nèi)部結(jié)構(gòu)進(jìn)行了調(diào)整，整個(gè)歷史街區(qū)以旅游功能為主進(jìn)行改造，注入社區(qū)概念，配建直飲水、布局雨污分流、網(wǎng)絡(luò)覆蓋，古老外表下有機(jī)更新了現(xiàn)代生活形態(tài)。</p> <p>第二階段是做好文化的傳承和創(chuàng)新。著力歷史文化名人和傳統(tǒng)文化的保護(hù)，著力恢復(fù)和傳承比如香市、姑嫂餅、藍(lán)印花布、三白酒、皮影戲、花鼓戲等傳統(tǒng)生產(chǎn)生活習(xí)俗，著力拓展烏鎮(zhèn)的文化內(nèi)涵，還增設(shè)了烏鎮(zhèn)長(zhǎng)街宴和戲劇節(jié)，建了烏鎮(zhèn)大劇院、木心美術(shù)館，做了現(xiàn)代藝術(shù)展和視覺(jué)藝術(shù)展。烏鎮(zhèn)開(kāi)展高質(zhì)量的文化活動(dòng)已經(jīng)成為常態(tài)?，F(xiàn)在的烏鎮(zhèn)，不僅是個(gè)古鎮(zhèn)，更是一個(gè)文化小鎮(zhèn)，她不僅是建筑美，還是傳統(tǒng)和現(xiàn)代的結(jié)合，所以更有內(nèi)涵和活力。</p> <p>第三階段是走向世界。2014年起，中國(guó)政府決定舉辦世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)，每年一屆。烏鎮(zhèn)被確定為世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)永久會(huì)址，稱“世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)·烏鎮(zhèn)分會(huì)”。至2019年10月，已如期舉辦6屆。世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)落戶烏鎮(zhèn)，令人稱羨，卻非偶然。源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng)的歷史文化，廣聯(lián)互通的區(qū)位優(yōu)勢(shì)，強(qiáng)勁的綜合實(shí)力和互聯(lián)網(wǎng)經(jīng)濟(jì)基礎(chǔ)，更有承接古今、融通天下的人文情懷依托。其實(shí)，自2000年起，陳向宏就帶著他的團(tuán)隊(duì)去世界各地觀摩、表演和推薦烏鎮(zhèn)，通過(guò)幾年不懈努力，烏鎮(zhèn)打開(kāi)了世界市場(chǎng)。</p> <p>每年900多萬(wàn)游客光顧，這在世界上都是一個(gè)令人矚目的數(shù)字，世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)選擇烏鎮(zhèn)為永久會(huì)址，也正是基于烏鎮(zhèn)前幾年打下的堅(jiān)實(shí)基礎(chǔ)，這種文化的傳承，為這個(gè)鎮(zhèn)走向世界打開(kāi)了一個(gè)窗口。烏鎮(zhèn)走到今天，最可貴的是，她做好自身文脈傳承在同時(shí)，積極融入了外面的世界，緊跟科技的發(fā)展趨勢(shì)，對(duì)接了互聯(lián)網(wǎng)時(shí)代。最后的枕水人家是烏鎮(zhèn)特有的建筑形態(tài)，無(wú)論是基于從她的歷史傳承，還是從她現(xiàn)在展示的活躍身姿看，烏鎮(zhèn)都不是靜態(tài)的，她充滿活力和無(wú)限可能，這是烏鎮(zhèn)的特性和神奇。</p> <p>曙光初露的晨曦，夕陽(yáng)西下的黃昏，行走在烏鎮(zhèn)，一股氤氳厚重的歷史氣息便撲面而來(lái)，仿佛讓人置身歷史與現(xiàn)實(shí)的交錯(cuò)時(shí)空里。烏鎮(zhèn)的繁華、靈秀和深沉，都是歷史積淀使然?，F(xiàn)實(shí)灑落在淡淡的初陽(yáng)光芒或斜陽(yáng)余暉里，石板路，石板橋、石幫岸及幫岸上的廊棚，木門(mén)、木窗、木墻及水閣上的木板，每個(gè)角落，每個(gè)物件，都在默默地向每一位曾經(jīng)到過(guò)或夢(mèng)中向往烏鎮(zhèn)的人訴說(shuō)歷史的往事。在烏鎮(zhèn)，看到的是歷史，踩到的也是遺跡，所以得輕輕地走、靜靜的看、慢慢的品、幽幽的思。繁華只是烏鎮(zhèn)的外在形態(tài)，而沉靜才是烏鎮(zhèn)的內(nèi)在特質(zhì)。</p> <p>保護(hù)、開(kāi)發(fā)、傳承和創(chuàng)新，這是烏鎮(zhèn)的經(jīng)驗(yàn)和模式；讓最先進(jìn)的世界文明成果與最悠久的中華文明積淀交流互鑒，讓現(xiàn)代信息技術(shù)與中華傳統(tǒng)文化交相輝映，這是烏鎮(zhèn)的亮點(diǎn)和特色。第七屆世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)·烏鎮(zhèn)峰會(huì)將于11月23日在烏鎮(zhèn)召開(kāi)，中華歷史文化與現(xiàn)代信息技術(shù)文明一年一度的風(fēng)云際會(huì)，東道主烏鎮(zhèn)自然得天獨(dú)厚，可喜可賀，讓世人羨慕不已。當(dāng)全球互聯(lián)網(wǎng)精英如約而至，新思想和新理念接踵而來(lái)，定會(huì)撞擊出新的智慧火花；當(dāng)現(xiàn)代信息技術(shù)成果匯聚于此，必將催生出創(chuàng)業(yè)合作的新機(jī)遇和新活力。以中華傳統(tǒng)文化為底色，以現(xiàn)代信息技術(shù)為引領(lǐng)，烏鎮(zhèn)將再一次站在續(xù)寫(xiě)歷史成就未來(lái)的發(fā)展新起點(diǎn)上。</p> <p>參考文獻(xiàn)：《烏鎮(zhèn)志》和《烏鎮(zhèn)東西》 等 文字：倪捷兒 編輯：倪捷兒 審讀：鄢祖鋒 攝影：千喜 化妝：晨雪 出鏡人：倪捷兒、陳望京 服裝：修奇品牌 拍攝地點(diǎn)：烏鎮(zhèn)東柵西柵</p>