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文明古國柬埔寨 Cambodia,A Country With Brilliant History

念怡

<p>我們有幸于2019年末來到了這個(gè)東南亞文明古國。第一站就是向往已久的吳哥窟所在地暹粒(xian li)。</p><p><br></p><p>In the end of 2019, we came to this Southeast Asia country with brilliant ancient culture. Our first stop was Siem Reap where Angkor Wat is located. </p> <p>被列為世界遺產(chǎn)的吳哥窟(Angkor Wat),位於柬埔寨暹粒市北5.5公里。它是一個(gè)龐大的、具有近千年歷史的寺廟群,占地面積162.6公傾。這里原為印度教圣地,12世紀(jì)末改為佛教寺廟。</p><p><br></p><p>Located in the suburbs of Siem Reap, Angkor Wat is a temple complex in Cambodia and the largest religious monument in the world. Originally constructed as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu for the Khmer Empire, it was gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the 12th century.</p> <p>吳哥窟的建設(shè)起始于12世紀(jì)的吳哥王朝。它是世界上最大的神廟,以建築宏偉與浮雕精細(xì)而聞名於世。</p><p><br></p><p>As one of the most important archaeological sites in South-East Asia, Angkor Wat is famous for its magnificent Khmer architecture and meticulous sculpture.</p> <p>法國古跡學(xué)家莫里斯·格萊斯(Maurice Glaize)認(rèn)為“吳哥窟是吳哥古跡中以造型之雄偉、佈局之平衡、比例之協(xié)調(diào)、線條之優(yōu)美,威風(fēng)赫赫,可比美世界上任何最杰出的建筑成就,而毫不遜色?!?lt;/p><p><br></p><p>實(shí)地游覽后真是感到名不虛傳!</p> <p>吳哥窟中央的廟山由三層長方形有回廊環(huán)繞的平臺(tái)組成,層層高疊,形如金字塔。</p><p><br></p><p>The central structure of Angkor Wat is like a pyramid. The temple stands on a terrace raised higher than the city. It consists of three layers of rectangular galleries that stack on each other and rise to a central tower.</p> <p><br></p><p>吳哥國家公園占地廣闊,內(nèi)有多個(gè)不同的寺廟,有的屬于不同的族群。它們之間通常相距數(shù)公里。</p><p><br></p><p>As the biggest temple complex, the Angkor National Park Stretches over some 400 km2. There are different temples scattered in different areas of Siem Reap.</p> <p>Prea Khan Temple</p><p>圣劍寺</p> <p>雖然是一片瓦礫,其殘存的精致雕刻和建筑風(fēng)格卻讓人看到它背后厚重的歷史文化和文明底蘊(yùn)。</p><p><br></p><p>Although full of crumbles, one can still see it’s rich history and brilliant civilization through the remaining fine carvings and architectural styles</p> <p>像不像古羅馬遺址?</p><p>Doesn’t it look like Roman Ruins?</p> <p>吳哥日暮</p><p>Dusk of Angkor Wat </p> <p>Pre Rup Temple</p><p>This is another temple that is very tall, like a tower.</p><p> </p><p>變身塔, 這是另一座神殿。</p> <p>作為一座圣城,吳哥窟主殿的四周有厚而高的城墻。城墻中有雕刻著佛面的高大的城門。(下)</p><p><br></p><p>As a temple city, Angkor Wat has a tall city wall which has several gates which were heavily decorated. (below)</p> <p>作為城墻廊柱的大象鼻 </p><p>The pillars of the wall gate are the sculptures of elephant noses</p> <p>城墻頂上現(xiàn)在變成了寬闊的林蔭道,伴以參天大樹。</p><p><br></p><p>The city wall is so thick, that it’s top has been eroded into a dirt path. This “dirt path” is lined with trees of hundreds years old.</p> <p>有城墻便自然也有護(hù)城河。吳哥窟的護(hù)城河寬闊而美麗。</p><p><br></p><p>There is a moat as well. The moat is wide and pretty with fishing boats dotted on it.</p> <p>河上常常見到小漁船。和越南不同的是,這里沒有擺拍風(fēng)。</p> <p>這是護(hù)城河的橋欄(下),它由連續(xù)的人像雕刻組成。這些雕塑有年久風(fēng)華損毀的,也有被人為毀壞的。</p><p><br></p><p>The below is the railing of the bridge on the moat. It is formed by many connected statues of Khmer warriors. Some of them are badly eroded.</p> <p>吳哥遺跡中的一部分是女人宮(下)。據(jù)說這里的建筑出自女工匠之手,它們曾有更艷麗的色彩和更為細(xì)膩的浮雕。</p><p><br></p><p>One important part of Angkor Wat is the Lady Temple (below). The buildings here are more elegant. They used to have richer colors and decorations. It is said the builders and artists were all female.</p> <p>女人宮以它的精雕細(xì)刻,圖案精美著稱。</p><p><br></p><p>The Lady Temple is known for it’s fine carving and delicate designs.</p> <p>柬埔寨的神廟和宮殿周圍常見狀似眼鏡蛇的雕飾,它們還常常用作扶欄。這源于高棉神話中的七頭蛇納迦(Naga),其原型就是眼鏡蛇。從許多神殿入口處的納迦塑像,可見柬埔寨人對(duì)納迦的崇拜。</p><p><br></p><p>Sculptures resembling cobras are often seen in Cambodia. They were used as decorations or, sometimes, as rails. This is originated from the seven-headed snake Naga in Khmer tale stories whose prototype is a cobra. The statues of Naga at the entrances of temples and palaces reflects the worship of Cambodian people to Naga.</p> <p>吳哥晨曦</p><p>Dawn at Angkor Wat</p> <p>晨逛下的城堡</p> <p>柬埔寨的古文化遺產(chǎn)是令人震撼的,更給人流行深刻印象的是柬人的淳樸善良。</p><p>任何時(shí)候如果注意到有旁人把相機(jī)鏡頭對(duì)向他們,他們便會(huì)露出善意的微笑并停留片刻。</p><p><br></p><p>Cambodia’s cultural heritage is amazing. But what’s more impressive is the kindness of the Cambodians.</p><p>Whenever they noticed someone’s camera pointed at them, they would pause and smile at you.</p> <p>這里是暹粒外圍貧民窟的一角,毗鄰相連的鐵皮屋色彩斑斕。極貧的生活似乎并沒有損害這里居民的尊嚴(yán)。</p><p><br></p><p>This is a corner of the slums outside Siem Reap. The tiny tin huts are closely next to each other. Despite of the poverty, people here live with their dignity.</p> <p>柬埔寨貧民的女兒。這樣的笑容讓人看到希望!</p><p><br></p><p>This smile gives one hope.</p> <p>柬埔寨鄉(xiāng)村女孩</p><p>Sarah, a Cambodian country girl.</p> <p>這是我最愛憐的一個(gè)女孩。她一直偎在我的身邊,對(duì)我們帶來的食物也并不去爭搶。</p><p><br></p><p>This girl caught most of my attention. She stayed at my side for long time, holding my hand, playing with my bracelet, and payed little attention to the food we brought.</p> <p>我們在屋外張望的時(shí)候這孩子正在屋內(nèi)讀著課本。見我們拍照便靦腆地出來張望。</p><p><br></p><p>This boy was reading his school textbook when we were outside of their hut. Noticing us, he came to the door and timidly peeked at us.</p> <p>好奇的眼睛</p><p>curious eyes</p> <p>暹粒不僅有古跡,也有醉人的鄉(xiāng)村風(fēng)光。</p><p><br></p><p>Siem Reap has not only the charming ancient heritage, but also mesmerizing country scenery.</p> <p>暹粒郊外的晚上:</p><p>在暹粒的最后一個(gè)晚上導(dǎo)游Siya帶我們來的郊外的農(nóng)家樂。</p><p>荷花池和稻田相鄰,其間設(shè)有一排排水上草屋。日暮時(shí)分,水邊的景物在晚霞掩映下恍若世外桃源。</p><p><br></p><p>On our last night in Siem Reap, Siya, our tour guide took us to a country restaurant.</p><p>It was settled amid lotus pond and rice fields with rows of cottages on water.</p><p>It was like a paradise when the cottages and the surroundings glowed under twilight.</p><p><br></p> <p>水邊成排的茅草屋其實(shí)是餐廳“包房”。游客可隨意擇屋入內(nèi)、席地而坐,品農(nóng)家菜,飲安哥酒(柬制啤酒品牌)。呱呱的蛙聲伴著習(xí)習(xí)的晚風(fēng),真似世外桃源!</p><p><br></p><p>The thatched huts on the water are actually separate dining rooms, which can be randomly selected by guests.</p><p>Guests sit on the floor at a low table, where they can order the local beer and the country styled dishes. The frog chirping and the breezes from the water made this evening one of our best memories in Cambodia.</p> <p>導(dǎo)游和司機(jī)和我們共度了難忘的夜晚。</p><p><br></p><p>We spent an unforgettable evening with Siya and our driver.</p> <p>左一為Siya,我們在暹粒的導(dǎo)游。</p><p>First from the left is Siya, the best tour guide I have met.</p> <p>這是導(dǎo)游給我們推薦的旅館,極好!</p><p><br></p><p>Siya recommended this hotel in Siem Real which was phenomenal!</p> <p>金碧輝煌的金邊王宮和周邊的極貧形成強(qiáng)烈反差!</p><p><br></p><p>The glamorous Royal Palace in Phnom Penh</p> <p>餐廳里的美麗舞女</p><p><br></p><p>Pretty and friendly dancer in the restaurant </p> <p>荷花盆景是柬埔寨的一粹。</p> <p>餐館和賓館的門口常見這一道特別的風(fēng)景。</p><p><br></p><p>Lotus decorations are often seen at the entrance of hotels and restaurants. The folded flower peddles make them more unique and attractive.</p> <p>餐桌上的荷花飾品</p> <p>荷葉包魚是柬埔寨常見的美食</p><p><br></p><p>Lotus leaf wrapped fish is a local delicacy </p> <p>來到金邊的訪問者很多都到圖斯廉監(jiān)獄來見證紅色高棉的暴政歷史。</p><p><br></p><p>Many visitors to Phnom Penh went to Tuslyan Prison to witness the tyranny history of the Khmer Rouge.</p> <p>陰森的圖斯廉原來是一所中學(xué),后來被改為監(jiān)獄,專門關(guān)押同情朗諾政府的社會(huì)人士。此地的暴行更甚于奧斯維辛集中營,二百萬柬浦寨知識(shí)精英在此死于非命。每一個(gè)受害人死前都受到慘無人道的酷刑。</p><p><br></p><p>Tuslyan prison is a dark page of the communism regime in this country. It can be compared to the Auschwitz concentration camp. This prison was converted from a school, some two millions of Cambodian intellectuals were murdered. Every victim was brutally tortured before death.</p> <p>All the scenes here exerted a chilling terror to us.</p><p>那是一種令人窒息的恐怖!</p> <p>中國讀者熟悉的被害女教師 (下)</p><p>One of the victims (below)was this school teacher whose brain was brutally pieced. </p> <p>醫(yī)學(xué)博士和夫人(受害者都是知識(shí)精英)</p><p><br></p><p>A medical doctor and his wife.</p> <p>他們的領(lǐng)袖,毛竹席的好學(xué)生波爾伯特</p><p><br></p><p>Polpot, the leader of Khmer Rouge</p> <p>圖斯廉監(jiān)獄幸存者(下),二百萬中兩個(gè)之一, 在監(jiān)獄門口出售他的回憶錄。</p><p><br></p><p>One of the two survivors from two million victims (below) was selling his memoir.</p> <p>這是紅色高棉幸存者的自述小說,讀時(shí)令我?guī)锥炔荒茏约?。紅色政權(quán)在戮害自己的民眾方面有驚人的共同之處,不過波爾布特走得最遠(yuǎn)。gczy幽靈從未離我們遠(yuǎn)去!善良的人們要警惕!</p><p><br></p><p>At the exit of the prison I also bought another memoir written by Loung Ung,“First They Killed My Father” (a Hollywood movie in the same name was made based on her story). Reading it on the airplane maid me unable to control my tears. The totalitarian regimes are all similar in terms of abusing and suppressing their peoples. We should all stay A-l-e-r-t, not to allow the nightmares of Communism happen elsewhere!</p><p>(note: for some reason, this software doesn’t take the word “a-l-e-r-t”)</p><p><br></p><p>The end</p>