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沙漠中的菩提樹

阿芳

<p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">"</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">那一天閉目在經(jīng)殿的香霧中,募然聽見你誦經(jīng)的真言,那一世轉(zhuǎn)山轉(zhuǎn)水轉(zhuǎn)佛塔,不為來世,只為途中與你相見"因</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 20px;">一首廣為流傳的情歌</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">而聞名的倉央嘉措給后人留下了身世之謎和生死之謎,他的情詩引發(fā)了人們無限的遐想。關(guān)于他失蹤之謎與阿拉善結(jié)下了不解之緣。在阿拉善到處都流傳著與他有關(guān)的故事,給神奇的阿拉善增加了更加神秘、神圣的色彩,許多地方留下許多傳奇故事。六世達賴喇嘛倉央嘉措是位神秘的活佛,阿拉善更是秘境。從拉薩到阿拉善大沙漠走出了一條藏傳佛教的一帶一路。</span></h3> <h3><span class="s1" style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">據(jù)倉央嘉措的卑末弟子阿旺多爾濟寫的《倉央嘉措秘傳》中記載</span><span class="s2" style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: &quot;.SFUIText&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">1706</span><span class="s1" style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">年倉央嘉措在被押解北京途中在青海湖畔突然失蹤。</span><span class="s1" style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 15pt;">1716</span><span class="s1" style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">年他率</span><span class="s2" style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: &quot;.SFUIText&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">16</span><span class="s1" style="color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">名僧人到了騰格里沙漠,</span>茫茫的大沙漠上有一座孤零零的小廟,據(jù)說是倉央嘉措進入阿拉善傳教之旅的第一站,他在這簡陋之處住了10多年。他在小廟前種下了好幾棵菩提樹,居然在干旱少雨,風沙漫天的沙漠上能夠成活真是奇跡,因為在周邊一片荒涼沙漠中,除了沙漠特有的駱駝刺,就是這幾棵奇特的樹種了。據(jù)說在沙漠中能生長菩提樹連植物學家都解釋不了,當?shù)厝税阉鼈兎Q為神樹。這也是倉央嘉措的替行花園,我不由地想起他的一首詩:</h3><h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">坐在菩提樹下</span></h3></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">我觀棋不語</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">前世</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">今世</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">來世</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">患得</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 15px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 15pt;">患失</span></h3><h3><br></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></h3> <h3>倉央嘉措在阿拉善做了十三座寺廟的主持。頭道湖昭化寺,最早建于唐朝,但被毀,這是倉央嘉措進入阿拉善后1733年在原址上建的第一座藏傳佛教寺廟,也是阿拉善藏傳佛教八大寺廟之一。他圓寂后肉身塔就在于此安放,后遷到賀蘭山下的南寺(廣宗寺)在昭化寺不遠處是他的塑像。寺廟的周邊建筑保留了古老的建筑風格,是喇嘛的居所。當喇嘛從房屋前走過,我似乎看到倉央嘉措飄然而去的身影!</h3> <h3>距頭道湖不遠是超格圖呼熱蘇木輝圖高勒嘎査三道湖的承慶寺,這是倉央嘉措1739年在阿拉善建成的第二座寺廟,典型的藏傳佛教風格。是阿拉善八大藏傳佛教寺廟其中之一。當時有25間房屋,喇嘛230多人,他在這兒舉行了第一次大法會"阿拉善經(jīng)會",1746年(乾隆十一年)圓寂于此。1866年寺廟擴建,周邊大小寺廟7座,房屋588間,僧人多達400余人?,F(xiàn)在雖然規(guī)模已經(jīng)不很宏大,住寺僧人也只有40余位,但是我們在大沙漠里的寺廟里感受到的是和別的地方寺廟不一樣的東西。寺廟里的傲云達賴喇嘛為我們無償誦經(jīng)祈福,還邀請我們到居所喝茶,備了酥油粘粑,油炸果子,水果,干果,隨便吃用。這里沒有世俗的功利和嘈雜喧鬧,沒有金錢的污染,一切隨緣,一切都很簡單,像沙漠里的湖水、藍天一樣純凈!</h3> <h3><br></h3><h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">倉央嘉措在沙漠中修行數(shù)年,</span><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">甚至相傳他在位于巴丹吉林沙漠深處的巴丹廟做過主持。從布達拉宮到青海湖到阿拉善數(shù)千公里路途遙遠,特別是進入騰格里大沙漠,腳下的路是如此艱難,他用腳翻越雪山沙漠的同時也仗量著信仰,到達無人能到達之處,讓菩提樹在沙漠生根,這可能就是信仰所致吧!他放下了,掩埋了他心中曾經(jīng)有過的愛情,也許愛情已經(jīng)融化于信仰之中,"那一瞬,我已飛,飛成仙,不為來世,只為有你,喜樂平安!"</span></h3></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">他曾經(jīng)寫過一首詩:</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">一個人需要隱藏多少秘密</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">才能度過巧妙的一生,,</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">這佛光閃閃的高原,</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">三步兩步便是天堂,</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">卻仍有那么多人,</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">因心思過重,</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">而走不動。</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">他曾經(jīng)沉寂了幾百年,近年來因為他的情詩流傳,人們才只知道他是一個多情浪漫的活佛,而又有多少人能夠解讀他的情詩里有多少信仰在其中呢?正如他在詩中所言:</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">那只東印度的孔雀</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">來自于緣起正見</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">它善于飛</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">卻不執(zhí)著于飛</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">那只工布深谷的鸚鵡</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">來自出世的愿望</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">它善于說</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">卻不執(zhí)著于說</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">內(nèi)中玄機重重</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">鸚鵡不說</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">孔雀就更不說了??</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">他在沙漠深處種下的菩提樹三百年來在蒼涼中沒有枯死,不知道菩提樹什么時候開花,穿越沙漠的朝圣者不少,菩提樹周邊掛滿了哈達,在風中像是經(jīng)幡飛舞,我在想著他的一句詩:</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">緣來花開,</span></h3><p class="p1" style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); white-space: normal; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.301961); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1" style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 19pt;">緣去花落…</span></h3>