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川西環(huán)線自駕游(3)A wonderful journey to Western Sichuan with my wife by driving ourselves

聞雞起舞

<p class="ql-block">行程5 理塘-四姑娘山景區(qū),435公里, 車(chē)程約9小時(shí),外加中途停車(chē)休息時(shí)間。</p><p class="ql-block">Section 5 Traveled and enjoyed the tour from Litang to Siguniangshan snow mountains, 435km, 9 hours drive plus extra time for stops and rests on the way m a few times.</p> <p class="ql-block">今天從理塘開(kāi)車(chē)到四姑娘山路途時(shí)間比較長(zhǎng)。為了趕路,5:30起了個(gè)大早,整理好東西,酒店餐廳還沒(méi)開(kāi)門(mén)也<span style="font-size: 18px;">沒(méi)吃早餐,</span>6:30理塘的天還沒(méi)亮(比北京時(shí)間時(shí)差晚約1小時(shí)),我們就開(kāi)車(chē)離開(kāi)了酒店<span style="font-size: 18px;">(海拔4014m),</span>進(jìn)入了張孟線,路上還黑燈瞎火呢,個(gè)別地方路面結(jié)了薄冰,<span style="font-size: 18px;">一路爬坡,</span>小心謹(jǐn)慎駕駛,安全第一。</p><p class="ql-block">7:15 天剛剛亮,煦暖的晨曦幾乎與地平線平行地投射過(guò)來(lái),為川西高寒山區(qū)的早晨增添了溫馨浪漫的色彩。我們到了東來(lái)二村路邊停車(chē)休息區(qū),停車(chē)<span style="font-size: 18px;">放松</span>一下。停車(chē)場(chǎng)建筑物上有一行大字“甘孜州公路建設(shè)服務(wù)中心.卡子拉山貨車(chē)司機(jī)之家”,更使人心里感覺(jué)到暖暖的。</p><p class="ql-block">My wife and I got up early this morning 5:30 before dawn. We left the town Litang at a altitude of 4014 meters about 6:30 in the morning for next destination Siguniangshan snow mountains. It was very dark while we drove along <span style="font-size: 18px;"> the first section of the </span>highway.</p><p class="ql-block">7:15 stopped at the village park for rest a while. </p> <p class="ql-block">繼續(xù)沿著張孟線-瀘聶線(<span style="font-size: 18px;">國(guó)道</span>G318)<span style="font-size: 18px;">一路東行</span>, 再次經(jīng)過(guò)天路十八彎、一路下行,輕車(chē)熟路,穿行于崇山峻嶺h和深川峽谷之中,已經(jīng)沒(méi)有了第一次走這里時(shí)心里發(fā)怵的那種感覺(jué)了,正所謂“曾經(jīng)滄海難為水,除卻巫山不是云”。</p><p class="ql-block">8:15 過(guò)了卡子拉山埡口,海拔4718米,很快就來(lái)到了康巴漢子觀景臺(tái),海拔4288米。</p><p class="ql-block">瞧,俺也充當(dāng)一會(huì)兒<span style="font-size: 18px;">康巴漢子哈??</span></p><p class="ql-block">We past over the pass of Kazila Mountains with a altitude of 4718 meters and then stopped at the Viewing Platform of <span style="font-size: 18px;">Kangba Man at a altitude of </span>4288 meters, took photos of the snow mountains in front of us.</p> <p class="ql-block">看雪山、高山原始森林和草原,崇山峻嶺,連綿不斷,碧空如洗,<span style="font-size: 18px;">風(fēng)景如畫(huà)</span>,真讓人贊嘆不已。</p> <p class="ql-block">318國(guó)道是川西運(yùn)輸干線,雙向兩車(chē)道,大卡車(chē)、油罐車(chē)多。自駕車(chē)在陡坡急拐彎處要特別注意對(duì)面是否有大卡車(chē)、長(zhǎng)油罐車(chē)過(guò)來(lái),大車(chē)因?yàn)檐?chē)身超長(zhǎng),拐彎時(shí)往往會(huì)跨過(guò)這邊半個(gè)車(chē)道,而且一般<span style="font-size: 18px;">速度都很快,自駕車(chē)需要注意觀察避讓?zhuān)悦獍l(fā)生意外</span>。俺每到急彎處總是小心一點(diǎn)慢一點(diǎn)開(kāi),牢記百度地圖導(dǎo)航常說(shuō)的一句話“安全才是最重要的交通法則”。</p><p class="ql-block">Should be careful when you meet big oil tanker and trucks at the sharp V-shaped turns on the highway.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">金秋彩林,一路皆美景。</p><p class="ql-block">Beautiful scenery of colorful forests on all the way.</p> <p class="ql-block">又一次路過(guò)<span style="font-size: 18px;">康定</span>新都橋,進(jìn)入國(guó)道G248,金秋網(wǎng)紅公路。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">又一次經(jīng)過(guò)了<span style="font-size: 18px;">甘孜藏族自治州道孚縣</span>八美鎮(zhèn),13:00到了木雅噶達(dá)<span style="font-size: 18px;">景區(qū)觀景臺(tái)</span>,<span style="font-size: 18px;">4A</span>級(jí)景區(qū),高山草甸、河灘和彩林,猶如精致<span style="font-size: 18px;">美麗的</span>油畫(huà)。</p> <p class="ql-block">進(jìn)入<span style="font-size: 18px;">國(guó)道</span>G 248丹巴秘境環(huán)線路段向北行駛,一路上與<span style="font-size: 18px;">雪山、彩林相伴,美不勝收。</span></p> <p class="ql-block">亞拉雪山觀景臺(tái),海拔3800米。</p> <p class="ql-block">美麗的亞拉雪山近在眼前。</p><p class="ql-block">亞拉雪山,也稱(chēng)<span style="font-size: 18px;">雅拉雪山,</span>藏語(yǔ)全稱(chēng)為“夏學(xué)雅拉嘎波”(意為東方白牦牛山),位于四川甘孜州康定、道孚和丹巴三縣的交界處,海拔5884米,是康巴地區(qū)一座著名的神山,雅拉河即發(fā)源于此。</p><p class="ql-block">Yala Snow Mountains with the peak of 5884 Meters above sea level.</p> <p class="ql-block">沿著國(guó)道G248中國(guó)熊貓大道??<span style="font-size: 18px;">北行</span>,穿過(guò)丹巴縣城,向南進(jìn)入阿壩小金縣。亞拉雪山融化的雪水流入小金川河,<span style="font-size: 18px;">自南向北流到丹巴與大金川河交匯進(jìn)</span>入大渡河,四姑娘山融化的雪水則流入沃日河,<span style="font-size: 18px;">由北向南</span>流到丹巴匯入大渡河,使得這里的水源極為豐沛,峽谷中溪流潺潺,樹(shù)林茂密,一派秀美風(fēng)光。</p> <p class="ql-block">進(jìn)入小金縣,凈土阿壩.熊貓家園??</p><p class="ql-block">Drove along the Road of Pandas, getting into Aba Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, home of pandas ?? </p> <p class="ql-block">穿過(guò)小金縣城區(qū)</p> <p class="ql-block">17:30到達(dá)四姑娘山景區(qū)酒店,海拔約2900米。小女幫預(yù)定的四姑娘山雙橋溝民宿,有11間小木屋,依山傍水,幽靜恬適,甚好。</p><p class="ql-block">Arrived at Siguniang Mountains at 17:30</p><p class="ql-block">in the afternoon, stayed at the small hotel with accommodation of 11 guest rooms on the riverbank, very beautiful place, and very comfortable hotel. </p> <p class="ql-block">這民宿緊挨著山澗,聽(tīng)流水潺潺,悠然自得。</p> <p class="ql-block">四姑娘山風(fēng)景名勝區(qū)核心景點(diǎn)為雙橋溝、長(zhǎng)坪溝、海子溝。</p><p class="ql-block">1994年被列為國(guó)家重點(diǎn)風(fēng)景名勝區(qū),1996年被載入國(guó)家級(jí)自然保護(hù)區(qū)名錄,2001年成為國(guó)家首批4A級(jí)旅游區(qū),2005年被批準(zhǔn)為國(guó)家級(jí)地質(zhì)公園。</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">雙橋溝景區(qū)</span>雙橋溝是四姑娘山三條溝中開(kāi)發(fā)最深入、設(shè)施最完善、景色最豐富、游客最多的景區(qū),全長(zhǎng)40余公里,<span style="font-size: 18px;">有17個(gè)觀景點(diǎn)54個(gè)景點(diǎn)。</span>景區(qū)內(nèi)全程可乘坐景區(qū)觀光車(chē),???個(gè)站。每個(gè)車(chē)站的景點(diǎn)都有觀光木棧道,適合各類(lèi)人群觀光游玩。</p> <p class="ql-block">進(jìn)入四姑娘山景區(qū),溝口海拔約2900米,乘坐景區(qū)大巴車(chē)到最高處景點(diǎn)紅杉樹(shù)站,<span style="font-size: 18px;">爬升至</span>海拔3840米。今天是星期天,瞧這大巴車(chē)一輛接一輛的上來(lái),游客還真有點(diǎn)多,據(jù)說(shuō)這周末日游客人數(shù)超過(guò)了1萬(wàn)人,是川西環(huán)線中游客最多的景區(qū)。</p><p class="ql-block">Shuangqiaogou tourism spot, and saw the landscapes of Siguniang Mountains with highest peak 6250 meters above the sea level.</p> <p class="ql-block">這里前一天剛下過(guò)雪,樹(shù)陰下地面還有好多積雪。</p><p class="ql-block">It snowed two day ago and we saw a lot of snow in the shadows of forests.&nbsp;</p> <p class="ql-block">下雪過(guò)后,天空放晴,陽(yáng)光、藍(lán)天、白云、雪山和紅杉樹(shù),構(gòu)成一道靚麗的風(fēng)景線。</p><p class="ql-block">It turn to be clear with strong sunshine and blue sky today, so beautiful scenery of the snow mountains colorful forests under blue sky. </p> <p class="ql-block">這里是玉兔峰,海拔5280米。玉兔峰四周海拔4600米左右形成了現(xiàn)代冰川,俗稱(chēng)“萬(wàn)年雪”,是現(xiàn)代雪線的標(biāo)志。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">雄鷹展翅峰</p> <p class="ql-block">從紅杉樹(shù)站乘坐景區(qū)大巴車(chē)下行到了布達(dá)拉(宮)峰站。<span style="font-size: 18px;">布達(dá)拉峰</span>海拔5240米。</p> <p class="ql-block">四姑娘山雙橋溝景區(qū)視頻,雪山環(huán)繞,一覽眾山小。</p><p class="ql-block">Video shot for the snow mountains&nbsp;</p> <p class="ql-block">白度母峰、尖子峰和獵人峰,海拔分別為5400米、5472米和5430米。</p> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">四川紅杉(Larix potaninii),是<span style="font-size: 18px;">我國(guó)四川特有樹(shù)種,一般</span>生長(zhǎng)于海拔2300-3500米的四川盆地西北緣高原山地,地處大雪山至邛峽山以東,是國(guó)家二級(jí)重點(diǎn)保護(hù)野生植物,列入《世界自然保護(hù)聯(lián)盟瀕危物種紅色名錄》(IUCN 2010年 ver 3.1)。</p><p class="ql-block">四姑娘山紅杉林主要分布于海子溝、長(zhǎng)坪溝和雙橋溝海拔3200-4300米之間的陰坡中上段,略高于暗針葉林的林線。</p><p class="ql-block">到了深秋季節(jié),<span style="font-size: 18px;">四姑娘山紅杉林</span>經(jīng)風(fēng)霜雪凍,變成了金黃色的彩林,美不勝收。</p> <p class="ql-block">斯拉古措,海拔3588米,位于獵人峰(海拔5430米)腳下,為古冰川侵蝕形成的冰川懸谷湖泊。澄澈的湖水與雪山彩林倒影,精彩紛呈。</p> <p class="ql-block">隆珠措,是第四紀(jì)冰川在四姑娘山景區(qū)留下的冰磧(冰川搬運(yùn)的石頭)堰塞湖,湖中的古沙棘樹(shù)形狀奇特,在湖水的倒影與周?chē)┥讲柿謽?gòu)成一幅壯麗畫(huà)卷,使隆珠措成為雙橋溝里景區(qū)的一個(gè)明星景點(diǎn)。</p> <p class="ql-block">人參果坪景點(diǎn),海拔3320米 ,高山草甸 。</p><p class="ql-block">Ginseng Fruit Plateau at a altitude of 3320 meters.</p> <p class="ql-block">古老沙棘樹(shù),樹(shù)齡超過(guò)540年,當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Q(chēng)<span style="font-size: 18px;">沙棘為</span>人參果,可食用、藥用。</p> <p class="ql-block">古老的沙棘樹(shù)上結(jié)滿了橙紅色的沙棘果,果漿特別的酸甜,口味濃厚,可生產(chǎn)飲料,曬干可入藥。</p> <p class="ql-block">人參果坪景點(diǎn)高山河流上的藏式伸臂橋,其結(jié)構(gòu)、承載力學(xué)原理和美學(xué)堪稱(chēng)一絕。</p><p class="ql-block">藏式伸臂橋史稱(chēng)“飛橋”,歷史悠久,是川西橫斷山脈山區(qū)和青藏高原地區(qū)橋梁史上的代表性杰作。伸臂橋集數(shù)學(xué)、力學(xué)、美學(xué)于一體,建筑之奇、結(jié)構(gòu)之巧,堪稱(chēng)世界一絕。伸管橋架設(shè)方法是從兩岸分別層層壓木,每一層均用砂石填充,各伸出數(shù)尺。當(dāng)兩岸層木相距一丈時(shí),再用大圓木連接為梁。在其上橫向密鋪長(zhǎng)數(shù)尺的細(xì)圓木作橋面,兩端用木釘或牛皮條綁扎固定即成。</p><p class="ql-block">結(jié)構(gòu)獨(dú)特,懸挑式梁木形成一道粗獷的圓</p><p class="ql-block">弧,這一建筑堪稱(chēng)中國(guó)橋染活化石,已被載入中國(guó)橋梁建筑大全。</p><p class="ql-block">Overhanging wooden bridge of Tibetan style, invaluable treasure of the Chinese bridge history&nbsp;</p> <p class="ql-block">很多人來(lái)四姑娘山游玩都是去雙橋溝,景區(qū)設(shè)施完善,景點(diǎn)多樣化,雪山環(huán)繞,還有高山湖泊,豐富多彩,但是在<span style="font-size: 18px;">雙橋溝里四姑娘山被其他山峰擋住了,看不到四姑娘山四座雪山大峰、二峰、三峰和幺妹峰的尊容。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">要想看到四姑娘山,還需到長(zhǎng)坪溝。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">于是,我們</span>第二天8:30從雙橋溝酒店出發(fā),開(kāi)車(chē)15分鐘,到了四姑娘山長(zhǎng)坪溝景區(qū)。與雙橋溝相比而言,<span style="font-size: 18px;">長(zhǎng)坪溝溝口更開(kāi)闊,山坡林密,彩林更美。小鎮(zhèn)有一條街,街面很整齊,有各色風(fēng)味餐廳和小店鋪。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">到了長(zhǎng)坪溝景區(qū),需要乘坐景區(qū)大巴車(chē)上山,下了車(chē),就是四姑娘山長(zhǎng)坪溝景區(qū)標(biāo)志性觀景臺(tái),四姑娘山的四座山峰映入眼簾。</span></p><p class="ql-block">We went to visit Changpinggou tourism spot in the morning of the second day, and saw the beautiful scenery of Siguniang Mountains with highest peak 6250 meters above the sea level.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">長(zhǎng)坪溝雖是半開(kāi)發(fā)狀態(tài),卻是徒步游覽四姑娘山的理想路線。1982年,四姑娘山被列為我國(guó)十大登山名山之一,<span style="font-size: 18px;">長(zhǎng)坪溝</span>被譽(yù)為戶外徒步登山愛(ài)好者的天堂,長(zhǎng)29公里,分布有21個(gè)景點(diǎn)。</p><p class="ql-block">Hiking along Changpinggou route </p> <p class="ql-block">長(zhǎng)坪溝景區(qū)開(kāi)始很長(zhǎng)一段路是木棧道,質(zhì)量上乘。景區(qū)游客稀少,很清靜。</p><p class="ql-block">景區(qū)內(nèi)雪山和地質(zhì)地貌多樣。溝內(nèi)<span style="font-size: 18px;">氣候獨(dú)特,</span>沿途流水潺潺,空氣濕潤(rùn),動(dòng)植物種類(lèi)豐富,古柏高大挺拔,紅杉樹(shù)枝密葉茂。</p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">四姑娘山靚照,自右向左四位靚麗姑娘依次為:</span>大峰海拔5355米,二峰海拔5454米,三峰海拔5664米,<span style="font-size: 18px;">幺妹峰海拔6247.8米(2023年新公布數(shù)據(jù))。</span>幺妹峰為四姑娘山主峰,是邛崍山脈的最高峰,四川第二高峰,被稱(chēng)為“蜀山皇后”,橫斷山脈第三高峰。幾天前在新都橋看到的貢嘎雪山主峰海拔7508.9米(2023年官方最新公布數(shù)據(jù)),是四川省最高的山峰,被稱(chēng)為“蜀山之王”。</p> <p class="ql-block">步道沿途所見(jiàn)古樹(shù)參天,尤其是方枝柏樹(shù)齡高達(dá)951年。</p> <p class="ql-block">行至深山老林,山麓密林郁郁蔥蔥,山澗流水潺潺,處處充滿著詩(shī)情畫(huà)意。讀宋黃伯思《東觀馀論·跋蜀道圖后模木》“云勢(shì)岫色,林谷明靄,皆有逸趣?!彪S賦詩(shī)一首:</p><p class="ql-block">林深不見(jiàn)人,</p><p class="ql-block">清泉石上流。</p><p class="ql-block">雪峰伴我走,</p><p class="ql-block">逸趣樂(lè)同游。</p> <p class="ql-block">清澈的溪流潺潺不絕,<span style="font-size: 18px;">風(fēng)光</span>秀美,人稱(chēng)“東方的阿爾卑斯”。</p> <p class="ql-block">湖光山色,相得益彰。千年樹(shù)木,雖死猶榮。原始生態(tài),絕美佳境。</p> <p class="ql-block">木棧道結(jié)束,開(kāi)始走山路。</p><p class="ql-block">幽靜神秘的原始森林,陽(yáng)光透過(guò)林蔭,灑下萬(wàn)縷金光。</p> <p class="ql-block">徒步穿行長(zhǎng)坪溝,是遠(yuǎn)離喧囂塵念、陶冶性情、鍛煉身體的好去處。</p> <p class="ql-block">與馬隊(duì)同道,崎嶇不平,部分路段融雪與馬糞之間相互攪合,泥濘不堪,馬糞臭味熏人。</p> <p class="ql-block">下午13:00 ,下干海子,海拔3505米。</p><p class="ql-block">最佳<span style="font-size: 18px;">攝影點(diǎn)</span>婆繆峰,海拔5413米,為花崗巖尖峰,邛崍山脈最昂揚(yáng)的山峰。</p><p class="ql-block">高山草甸、湖泊置于群山環(huán)抱之中,藍(lán)天、白云、雪山和澄澈的湖水相映成趣。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">兩河口冰川,這里是觀賞四姑娘山和冰川的最佳位置。<span style="font-size: 18px;">四姑娘山被譽(yù)為</span>“蜀山皇后”,"東方的阿爾卑斯"。</p><p class="ql-block">看精彩視頻,如同身臨其境。</p><p class="ql-block">Video shot for Siguniang snow mountains.</p> <p class="ql-block">四姑娘山以雄峻挺拔聞名,周?chē)?5雪山海拔超過(guò)5000米,山體陡峭,冰雪覆蓋,銀光照人。</p><p class="ql-block">四姑娘山最高峰幺妹峰(海拔6247.8米,2023年新公布數(shù)據(jù)))和U型谷現(xiàn)代冰川。</p><p class="ql-block">Siguniang Mountains with 85 peaks at altitude over 5000 meters are known as the Eastern Alps, We saw the highest peak of 6250 meters above sea level named as the Youngest Sister Peak , and the modern glaciers in the U-shaped valley.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">藍(lán)天下幺妹峰峻秀非凡,驚艷四座。</p> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">18:30回到了酒店,看了一下手環(huán),今日高海拔山路徒步36300步,這是繼稻城亞丁之后又一次挑戰(zhàn)了體力和耐力的極限。</p><p class="ql-block">晚餐,<span style="font-size: 18px;">兩人份</span>:<span style="font-size: 18px;">牦牛肉炒</span>芹菜88元,<span style="font-size: 18px;">麻婆豆腐26元,</span>熗炒圓白菜28元,一共142元。四姑娘山真是個(gè)景色瑰麗,而且好吃不貴的好去處。</p><p class="ql-block">My wife and I hiked along Changpinggou route. My wristband pedometer showed 36300 steps for the hiking today. It was great challenge for both of us with age of 65 to hike at the mountain area with altitude about 4000 meters. Anyway it was fine with us although we&nbsp; felt so tired when got back to the hotel at 6:30 in the evening.</p><p class="ql-block">I ordered the foods at the hotel restaurant: stirred yak meat, doufu ( Bean curd ) <span style="font-size: 18px;">with Sichuan hot favor</span> and vegetables, 142 RMB for us two persons, very delicious and cheap. Better but not expensive is&nbsp;my favorite and my philosophy of the life.&nbsp;</p>